Cyl rod polishing

[RoyJackson]

I have some buffing machines I use in car restoration, stainless,alum resto etc and rubber backed abrasive wheels and various grit compounds for polishing.Do you think I should try any of these?.Tlbuser, I'll use you suggestion if it comes down to it.Never thought to use JB weld or silver solder/brazing.I've got both loader cyls to do as well,all leaking pretty bad.I'll post some pics later of the rod and the packing if I can zoom in that close.

I wouldn't have thought of the JB weld either. I have seen the silver solder rework. That was done by a repair shop with a lot of experince in hydraulic repairs. Most of my hydraulic experience stems from Naval Air where such a repair wouldn't be allowed.

Both cylinders are bad??? That's extremely odd. Have you any idea how this happened?

 

[bones1]

Roy, the bucket cylinder had a large branch fall/drag against it while extended about 6-8 inches and the larger boom cyl always had a drip that now has progressed to a large leak.Leaks while just sitting with the engine off.I have smoothed the rod as best I can and installed the new seals but now I can't remember which way the steel collars or retainers on the rod end where the nut goes go back.One is tapered and the other is flat also don't know the torque on the nut after I figure placement out.I did count 21/2 threads showing on the original assy before dissembly but now when I assemble it to 21/2 nut turns there is a lot of play between the seals.Don't remember how much play there was before between the seals.I do however still remember where my garage is.I think. Here are some pictures http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/shenders/PICT0172.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/shenders/PICT0170.jpg Should the beveled steel piece be out toward the nut?.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/shenders/PICT0165.jpg

 

[RoyJackson]

"Roy, the bucket cylinder had a large branch fall/drag against it while extended about 6-8 inches and the larger boom cyl always had a drip that now has progressed to a large leak"

Chrome plate is pretty tough. I'm surprised a branch could do that kind of damage. Right off the bat, I'd consider going to the dealer and file a warranty claim.
You really need a manual to when rebuilding hydraulic components. Cylinders are pretty easy to rebuild (messy though) as long as you lay the components out in the order in which they're disassembled. Determining how tight everything should be (upon reassembly) can be tricky.
Since the rods are scratched (probably beyond repair since you can catch a fingernail in them...it doesn't take much), you'll want to rebuild or replace them...IMHO.

 

[bx23barry]

That sounds like more than a nicked seal. I would check your reassembly. Do you have a manual? The rods can be repaired/rechromed by a good hydraulic shop. They don't need to be replaced but replacing a small rod (or even the whole cyl) may be cheaper than rechroming.

 

[bones1]

Well, it worked.Two of the real leaky cylinders have not leaked a drop yet according to the cardboard I have under them.Hope it stays that way.The deep gouges I first hit with a rubber flex abrasive wheel on the bench buffer with 320 grit dry. Finished by hand with 2'' wide x10'' strips of resin paper, 320,400,600,800,and 1000 grit all lubricated with WD40.Dried off and cleaned shaft then buffed the entire length with a sisal wheel and finally a med cotton with rouge.Worked well and wasn't all that tough to do.I'm sure that would be frowned upon in professional circles but seemed to work fine.We'll see.

 

[KJM]

Well, if it was me I'd have done the same thing. You've got virtually nothing to lose, the correct repair is either replacement or re-plating after machining. If this doesn't fix it, you can always do the "proper" thing later.

My little B7100 eats PTO seals. It needs a new PTO shaft. I can buy the shaft, but I can't install it. The subframe for the backhoe is welded up around the back of the tractor. So the proper fix remains, well, distant! Until then, a new PTO seal is part of the maintenance programme. Tractor ownership, IMHO, is an exercise in pragmatism! If your rods scuff out seals somewhat quickly, it is probably cheaper to just keep buying seals till it annoys you enough to motivate replacing!

$0.02.
/Kevin

 

[sandman2234]

Now that you have broken the chome plating by sanding it, you need to make a concerted effort to keep the cylinders retracted whenever you are not using them. Being retracted should keep them in oil and therefore slow down any rust. Accidently leaving them extended for even a short time will allow rust to start, and that will soon be the end of your seals.
David from jax

 

[RoyJackson]

Well, it worked.Two of the real leaky cylinders have not leaked a drop yet according to the cardboard I have under them.Hope it stays that way.The deep gouges I first hit with a rubber flex abrasive wheel on the bench buffer with 320 grit dry. Finished by hand with 2'' wide x10'' strips of resin paper, 320,400,600,800,and 1000 grit all lubricated with WD40.Dried off and cleaned shaft then buffed the entire length with a sisal wheel and finally a med cotton with rouge.Worked well and wasn't all that tough to do.I'm sure that would be frowned upon in professional circles but seemed to work fine.We'll see.

Good for you!
I do hope they hold up for ya!
I am somewhat surprised it worked...but I'll remember your repair in case I ever have to do it.