dealer network

[kzehr75]

forgive my ignorance, new to tractors and am looking to purchase one, 30-40hp shortly. been reading a lot on here about buying a brand with a good dealer/dealer network. what determines a good dealer network? where im located, i have about all brands im interested in within a hour or less drive. Jd is 10 minutes, kubota and mahindra and case 15minutes, new holland and ls are an hour away. ive heard good things about all the dealers. i havent decided on which brand but have narrowed my choices down somewhat. 30-40hp,4wd, fel and will be getting a backhoe attachment as well. wont be farming just taking care of our land, maintaining roads and motocross track, brush hogging,etc. the big stuff my son in law can handle with the "big tractor".

 

[Turbys_1700]

First thing I think about is the service area. Do they have good mechanics? Parts support is right there also. How big is the dealership? Do they mostly serve farmers or home owners? Do they have field service trucks? How long have they been in business? What do the local farmers mostly run? Who has the most market in the area? I would not be hesitant on any of the major brands for parts support. In many cases Deere is usually higher priced but not always. With them only 10 minutes away that would be my first stop. In that size tractor I am partial to Kubota then Deere but that is just personal preference.

 

[Wagtail]

No ignorance at all, Mate. Your initial post is spot on for what you need to look for in a great dealership, especially the "I've heard good things about all the dealers."

As Turbys_1700 suggested, you need to talk to the local farmers about the reputation of the various dealerships in your area. A great dealership knows that they're in it for the long haul with their customers and that the best advertisement for them isn't a flashy advert/commercial but word of mouth.

A great dealership (any colour) salesman will sit down with you, listen to what you want a tractor for, then ask you what you need the tractor to do. In my own experience, my dealer then suggested (and sold me) the tractor that I needed.

In my case and for my locale, JD has the best rep & support for me. That's not to put down the other dealers here, but the 'word in the paddock' steered me to the tractor & dealership I'm with.

 

[boggen]

things to think about....

sub frame for backhoe for given tractor.

larger alternator if they offer it, it sounds like you have enough stuff, to point were running possibly a 12v winch from tractor might be needed. along with higher up front and rear lights, either off of ROPS, or sun shade or cab version of tractor. and possibly 12v on demand sprayer, or perhaps using a 12v to 110v converter to run a little tool here or there.

TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch, you mention of dealing with driveway, roads, and "track" and most likely a 3pt hitch rear blade, 3pt hitch box blade, 3pt hitch land plane/grader scraper, 3pt hitch drag of some sort, and 3pt hitch rake of some sort. will end up on the machine. the TNT replaces top link and/or a side link or both side links on the 3pt hitch with hydrualic cylinder, so you can adjust on the fly the 3pt hitch, vs getting off tractor and manually adjusting the large turn buckles. so you can obtain wanted angles of what ever you have on 3pt hitch.

TNT requires 1 or 2 hydraulic rear remotes. plus valves for them as well.

sounds like you are i need for 4x4 / MFWD tractor.

i am guessing a HST and/or shuttle shift and/or same speed backwards/forwards setup. due to alot of turning around and back and forth motion, and varying overall ground speed a lot.

most likely you will end up with a "quick hitch" of some sort, make it telescopic lower lift arms (my preference), to pats easy hitch, to an upside down U (multi brands out there) quick hitch. to note it, the upside down U quick hitches, generally you need to modify 1 or more of your 3pt hitch stuff to properly fit a quick hitch, (just one of them things)

you will most likely want "hooks" welded or bolted to top of FEL (front end loader) general duty bucket.

you will most likely want "split rear brakes" either lock pedal for rear brakes, or undo latch, for 2 pedals, 1 for left rear tire, and 1 for right rear tire brake. and you will most likely want the brakes on a separate foot than the gas peddle / hst peddle / go peddle.

chance you may want a bolt on or strap on "tooth bar" for FEL (front end loader bucket).

guessing you will want R1 / AG tires on tractor, to keep you going in mud. vs R4 / Industrial tires, or turf tires.

going to assume you may want the rear tires spaced further out. (many times rear tires can be swapped side for side) and gain a couple inches or more wider stance on rear end. to help deal with hills / steep slopes.

possibility of wanting chains for tires.

DOUBLE CHECK manual for tractor, they may recommend to fill or not fill rear tires with a fluid with backhoe on, and/or if you can fill front tires with a fluid as well for extra counter balance weight.

there is chance you may want / need the "swinging draw bar" that is located directly below the PTO shaft. so you can toss a ball on, to pull a trailer, wagon, or something. and not have to deal with the 3pt hitch.

for the rotatory cutter (bush hog), you most likely will want a "front grill guard" so you do not run a stick / tree limb through radiator and oil coolers up in front.

check out the bottom of tractors, to see how much stuff can get ripped off, by catching a branch or like laying on the ground.

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if you plan to use backhoe a lot. would suggest looking for more of a TLB (tractor loader backhoe), were the tractor seat itself does 180 degree spin to access backhoe controls, vs hoping off tractor, and then climbing on backhoe seat, and repeat 100 plus times a day. if you go this route make sure the backhoe comes off and you have access to a 3pt hitch.

make sure you get the 3pt hitch kit, that includes lower lift arms, top link, along with check chains, and sway bar/chains for 3pt hitch. some times ordering backhoe, they skip out of the 3pt hitch stuff.

a thumb for backhoe, can be nice, if you are dealing with culverts, tree limbs, wood fence posts, etc... and needing a way to grab stuff with backhoe.

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test drive all the tractors, that you are interested in. there can be a difference in control layouts.

all your 3pt hitch attachments can be bought third party and most likely cheaper and better. but most of the stuff above tends to be more tractor specific to given brand and model of tractor. and getting it all on same sales receipt, might help reduce overall cost.

tires can be a large costly item. and can nickle dime you on the "ply rating", and/or adjust to off brand name tires. that might reduce cost. some.

see how they might handle / charge you, for any fixes, or warranty issues that might come up. parts and labor most likely free, but trailing tractor from your home to there place and back, they may charge you a nice good old fee.

initial couple filters and fluid changes, might be on them, might be on you.

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you get a basic tractor, but it is a bunch of all the little addon's that can quickly bring cost of tractor up, but at same time make your life easier and pending on jobs tractor will see, make them quicker and easier to do. reducing your time on tractor. some times it is better for pure more HP the better tractor, some times it is better to get a smaller tractor with all the extra addon's.

if you need more professional look, and final grading of dirt, taking an extra pass or 2 with smaller tractor with all the addon's more likely quicker, than taking a few more passes with larger tractor and having to manually adjust stuff, to try and get what you want. and try and hope for the best.