Debating whether or not I want a hydraulic top link

[jmt1271]

Received my new Kubota L2501 last week and really enjoying it.

Only issue is my non Land Pride drag harrow(with a frame to lift with 3 point) which I love, won't work with my LP QH15. Despite me asking dealer to confirm it would prior to purchase. I'm trying to find a way to modify it to work.

Anyway, I had the dealer install 2 rear remotes in case I wanted to add TNT down the road.

Using my grader scraper has convinced me to at least consider the hydraulic top link right now.

My question for those who've added one is this. Do you find it useful when using a grader scraper?

I don't mean so much in gravel driveway maintenance but more so when using to cut a trail into virgin ground? I'm clearing about an acre or 2 on the back side of our property to make some shaded trails for the girls to ride horses etc and have found myself adjusting the top link quite a bit.

Additionally, I think the hydraulic link would make general implement attaching much easier, especially for the non QH implements.

Just want to hear general thoughts before I decide how to proceed. Thanks.

 

[/pine]

Personally I would not stop at just a top link I would go ahead and go for the side link as well...

It never fails that when I am using any of the grading/grooming implements I use on a regular basis...box blade, rear blade, landscape rake I use the hydraulic side link more often than I do the top link...I am constantly making minor adjustments to keep the implement in full contact with the surface being worked...
...Same way with my tiller and or my 3PH forks...makes picking up pallets etc. off uneven terrain a breeze...

IMO there is nothing that makes using just about any 3PH attachment any easier or more efficient than T&T...

Generally the biggest drawback to adding T&T is the cost of adding the plumbing (valve and remotes)...once you have them the cylinders are a minimal expense in comparison...

Once an operator experiences T&T...they will wonder how they ever got along with out them prior...

 

[davrow]

My question for those who've added one is this. Do you find it useful when using a grader scraper?

I don't mean so much in gravel driveway maintenance but more so when using to cut a trail into virgin ground?

That's why I have a top link. On road maintenance you don't need it much, but for cutting new trails it is absolutely the only way to go. Deep cutting to get rid of the brush, flat to fill in gouges or potholes, rear blade for smoothing.

I tend to do short sections at a time, as I have a lot of brush to clean up afterward, so I am adjusting the top link very often.

Also agree tilt cylinder useful. But minor (in my case) compared to usefulness of hydraulic top link.

 

[DK35vince]

I use my hydraulic top link nearly every time I use the tractor. (wouldn't be without one).
My hydraulic side link doesn't get used often, but its nice to have when I need it.

 

[JerryK]

I have hyd side links on two of my tractors. They are invaluable to work a road or trail. Blade, rake, or land plane. With the ability to drive on either side and keep the thing crowned properly. The top link, on the other hand, is the normal manual. Once they are set right for the implement I only need to change the side link on the go. Not downplaying some folks like of the top link, but for me the side link is more valuable.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

I have the hydraulic top link on both my tractors. I can't imagine not having it.

I do not have the hydraulic side link on either of my tractors. I don't see a need for it yet. But, in my business, I don't grade roads.

 

[CADplans]

This post kinda expands the OP's topic,, WHICH HYDRAULIC TOP LINK??
I have some cylinders, and top link end replacements, so I plan on building a couple.

The question I have, is which one to duplicate?
8 inch stroke, or 10 inch stroke?
2 inch bore cylinder, or 2 1/2 inch bore cylinder?

I also have a 2 inch bore, 16 inch stroke cylinder, but, I can not imagine a need for that much stroke.

I also have a 3 inch cylinder, but, it too is 16 inch stroke.

So, what are the optimum hydraulic top link dimensions?
My tractors are 40 and 55 horsepower, CAT I and II respectively,,,

 

[/pine]

...So, what are the optimum hydraulic top link dimensions? ...

I would say one that is the closest match (extended and retracted) to the OEM manual link...2.5" bore should be sufficient...

 

[DK35vince]

I matched the retracted hydraulic top link cylinder to my retracted OEM manual top link.
I'm running a 2" top link cylinder on my 35 HP tractor and it works fine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The problem with matching to the factory manual link is that I would estimate that almost 50% of the top links provided with these newer tractors are WRONG. I honestly can't tell how many tractors that I have measured that had top links that would get you less than 1" of retraction (forward leaning) on a box blade. Several have actually been where a box blade would be level front to back fully collapsed. So matching to the dimensions of the factory unit is not always the best way to go.

This is what I recommend that people do.

Based on the determined measurement, you then try get a top link that is either equal in stroke for retracting and extension or ideally 1/2"-1" more retraction than extension. In general you never want less than 3" of adjustment in either direction of the determined measurement.

I would say that my most common strokes are 8", 9" & 12" for top links. 4",5" & 6" for side links.