Deere 4010 rebuild advice

[Waterhead1234]

Hi All,

I'm new to TBN and this is my first post although I have spent many hours lurking before I decided to register. This forum is a great resource. Thank you all for your contributions!

A little history... A friend just bought a JD 4010 diesel basket case tractor that has passed through a few local owners since the last time it ran. No real history on the problems it may have had. The P.O. said the injector pump needed a rebuild and we seemed to confirm that with very low volume/pressure at the injectors. My buddy decided to R&R the entire fuel system, so we pulled injectors and I ran the bore scope into the cylinders through the injector holes to find heavy scoring and mild surface rust in 4 of the 6 cylinders. The oil looks good (for oil that hasn't been changed in a decade), no water or obvious shavings. I can't seem to find my compression tester but this tractor would only sputter on ether. I think that tells me all I needed to know.

We're hoping to do an in-frame rebuild. Neither my friend or myself have rebuilt a diesel or a tractor engine for that matter but have plenty of experience with automotive/gas engines. That leads me to a few questions I hope you all can help me out with.

1) What's the best way to get the sleeves out? I was thinking a bottle jack blocked up from the shop floor but I have no idea how realistic that is.
2) My buddy says he has heard the 0.125" larger sleeves/pistons for the 4020 will retrofit to the 4010. Any confirmation or gotcha's on that?
3) Assuming no issues with question #2, will there need to be any modifications to the injection system to accommodate the new larger engine?
4) This project has already overshot it's budget by 3x. I found a complete kit online for around $1500 and my buddy says he found one for $1200. Both seem reasonable but do you guys have any other parts suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
John

 

[radios1]

you have quite the job ahead of you!. a few suggestions, this is for the ford 8n, but the job is very similar.. also, you can use standard size sleeves, there's no need to go oversize.. https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=ppKRW-LqMOXx5gK9_IzwBg&q=how+to+remove+cylinder+sleeves+on+ford+tractor&oq=remove+cylinder+sleeves&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.i22i3l2.2578.11312..16111.......12.178.23j1..........1..gws-wiz.......ji131.FEU5yZbLrLc

 

[Waterhead1234]

Ok, Wow! That's not at all what I had imagined. I was under the impression that the sleeves were exposed to the water jacket and sealed with o-rings. The only reason my buddy wanted to go with the bigger sleeves was for the added displacement/horsepower.

Thanks for that video. I really hope it goes that easy.

 

[radios1]

Ok, Wow! That's not at all what I had imagined. I was under the impression that the sleeves were exposed to the water jacket and sealed with o-rings. The only reason my buddy wanted to go with the bigger sleeves was for the added displacement/horsepower.

Thanks for that video. I really hope it goes that easy.

bigger sleeves would require boring, then honing, along with the bigger pistons and rings, that can be done, but boring can't be done without putting the engine on a boring machine, they have to be right on the money.. unless the sleeves have the same OD, in which case the wall thickness of the sleeves would have to be thinner to accept a larger ID, I'm not a fan of very thin Sleeves..

 

[DwayneB]

Onelonleyfarmer on YouTube has an entire video series of a 4010 rebuild.

 

[RickB]

bigger sleeves would require boring, then honing, along with the bigger pistons and rings, that can be done, but boring can't be done without putting the engine on a boring machine, they have to be right on the money.. unless the sleeves have the same OD, in which case the wall thickness of the sleeves would have to be thinner to accept a larger ID, I'm not a fan of very thin Sleeves..

Virtually every 4010 that has been overhauled in the last 30-35 years has had a 4020 kit installed in it. I’m not even sure where one would go to buy a kit for the original 380 cu. in. engine. I rebuilt a 4010 in about 1990 and the only kit Deere offered at that time was a 404 cu. in. kit. No machining of the block is required.

 

[RickB]

you have quite the job ahead of you!. a few suggestions, this is for the ford 8n, but the job is very similar.. also, you can use standard size sleeves, there's no need to go oversize.. https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=ppKRW-LqMOXx5gK9_IzwBg&q=how+to+remove+cylinder+sleeves+on+ford+tractor&oq=remove+cylinder+sleeves&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.i22i3l2.2578.11312..16111.......12.178.23j1..........1..gws-wiz.......ji131.FEU5yZbLrLc

A 4010 is a wet sleeved engine. Big difference. Better YouTube that.

 

[RickB]

Ok, Wow! That's not at all what I had imagined. I was under the impression that the sleeves were exposed to the water jacket and sealed with o-rings. The only reason my buddy wanted to go with the bigger sleeves was for the added displacement/horsepower.

Thanks for that video. I really hope it goes that easy.

Your 4010 indeed has a wet sleeved engine.

 

[MossRoad]

A simple "I think you are mistaken" would do.

Please continue with the original discussion.

 

[Waterhead1234]

I had searched on youtube some time ago and found a guy knocking sleeves out with a sledge. I wasn't fond of that idea when it's setting on a stand much less trying to miss the crank.

-DwayneB. I found the Onelonleyfarmer 4010 video "Pulling the liners". I like that. Somehow I convinced myself they would be stuck in there a whole lot tighter. Anyway I plan to watch the whole series.

So if they don't sell a 380 kit then the fuel system should be able to handle the larger engine.

Thanks everyone for your input.