Deutz d5506 won't crank - think its an electrical problem

[BauerNick]

Hello,
2WD Deutz d5506, 4 cylinder air cooled F4L 912 diesel

I have been having sporadic problems starting this even before the cold spell came along. I assumed it was just a low battery. I jump started it last week, that worked fine. Then this week, again wouldnt start, so i put a battery charger on it overnight. Tried to start it in the morning but no luck. Ran an errand in town, came back and tried it again. It wouldnt start right away but after depressing clutch a few times it finally started turning over and with a little coughing finally got it going strong. Ran it about 3 hours yesterday, then turned it off and went to town to buy a new battery. Put the new battery in and could not get it started (wouldnt turn over at all). So i put it on the charger overnight just in case new battery wasnt fully charged. Tried it this morning and would not turn over at all. Also tried to boost it with a jump from my truck -- nothing. I could hear a slight click but it would not turn over.

So im convinced i have an electrical problem. I read about starters and bypassed the solenoid -- i can hear the starter rotating at high speed when i do this but not a bit of compression -- what does this mean? It acts like it does when i try to start it when it is in gear, so with this in mind i crossed what i presume are the wires for the neutral sensor switch (2 wires attached to terminals coming out of a boot at the gear shifter) and tried to start it again to no avail. So maybe a clutch sensor problem? Anyone know where the sensor/switch is for clutch on this series of tractors, or how to bypass it as a check? Could a faulty ignition switch cause this? The ignition on this deutz is a key that turns but then you have to pull out on a handle to actually crank it. Not sure if the key switch or this pull lever may be faulty? How could i bypass the ignition switch to do this or would bypassing the solenoid do the same thing?

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated

best regards,
BauerNick

 

[DT86]

A few questions.

Does the knob to start manually connect to the starter?

Do you have a voltage tester?

 

[BauerNick]

I havent pulled the starter knob but there are no mechanical connections to the starter or solenoid, only electrical. Couldnt find my multimeter today but i have one around here somewhere

 

[BauerNick]

This is the type of pull switch i have: UDZ4001 Switch with Cold Start---Pull Type---Replaces 11693920

 

[Coyote machine]

How many hours on the clock? How old is the clutch package, and how much/frequent use does the tractor get?
Seems like the clutch switch maybe part of the problem, so it is worth finding out if it is faulty, to at least rule it out.
Also make sure all connections to/from the battery are clean shiny metal, especially the ground cable attachment at the frame/chassis. No corrosion at any part of the start/ignition circuit components, and check the fuse box too for blown or corroded fuses.
Report back findings.

 

[jimmysisson]

If you hear the starter spinning but its not cranking the engine over you've got a solenoid problem, or low amps to the starter.
Remove and clean to bright metal both ends of both battery cables, tighten securely. If no joy, remove starter and bench test it or have a shop do so. Make sure the drive slides out to catch the flywheel teeth. Clean all once its working and reassemble.
Also sounds like maybe glow plugs aren't working. Hence the need for a multi meter, who h would also let you see if you're getting current to the starter. Be sure you're in neutral.
Jim

 

[Navasot]

May just need a new solenoid since its just spinning and not kicking in.

 

[BauerNick]

Thought I'd post a follow-up, it may help others having similar issue. I checked voltage at battery and at starter - both are fine. Since I had already ordered the starter, I went ahead and installed the new complete starter (motor and solenoid). Tried it again and same result, just a click no turning over. Later yesterday I finally got my wiring diagram and operator's manual in the mail, read it more closely and realized that when bypassing the ignition to test the starter, I had been doing it wrong. I was connecting the main terminal (terminal 30 on wiring diagram) at the solenoid to the starter motor. This is where the feed from battery comes. This resulted in the starter simply spinning. What I needed to do was connect the circuit between the main feed terminal at solenoid to the small side terminal on the solenoid (terminal 50 on diagram). This is the wire coming from the ignition switch and completes the circuit to actuate the solenoid and engage the gear at flywheel. Upon completing this bypass from terminal 30 to 50, the tractor cranked over and started up perfectly. So I got my tractor started and can use it in the meantime, I'll just need to start it with a screwdriver at the starter every time.

What I can surmise from this is that I have either a bad key switch or ignition/preheater switch. These items are the only other switches that complete the circuit to terminal 50. I'm guessing it is the ignition/preheater switch since the key switch seems to operate the lights OK. Since they are both only about $40 bucks I'm ordering both and hopefully this will take care of the issue.