Differential lock/4x4

[Anonymous Poster]

First, I'd like to thank everyone for their posts. I've learned so much, and had some new questions raised I didn't think about before. From everything I've read I'm leaning towards the BX2200, although I can't find a dealer close that has one for me to test. My real question though is this:
If I understand it right the rear diff lock would have both back wheels spinning, like posi trac on a car, right? The four wheel would lock the front in. When the front is locked in do both sides on the front grab or only one side like most 4x4 trucks. When mowing on an incline(which I have) what is the noticable difference between diff lock and 4x4? I have 3 acres, 1 1/2 of which I'd like to cut. I've been having the hill brush hogged, but think I can finish cut it with the right equipment. I also cut my mothers which is about 10 minutes ride away (on my little Cub), so I need something to get around her yard which has lots of trees and buildings, etc. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Charliebrn]

The differential lock is used when you have one rear spinning, just as you thought. Don't run it all the time though, as it'll cause binding in turns, etc. The 4WD locks in the front, but only one of the fronts will turn. Again, I wouldn't run this all the time, especially on paved roads. Ive never yet had a situation where all three driving wheels have spun on me instead of moving my tractor, and I have some serious inclines in my ditch that I finish mow with my BX.

You'll find that the BX is amazingly stable in hills that will cause MAJOR pucker factor with other tractors due to its low center of gravity. From your description of your needs, it sounds as if the BX is just the ticket...

Scott

 

[Bird]

There is a major difference in posi trac in an auto and the differential lock on the tractor. On a car, it allows one wheel to slip a bit then "automatically" transfers power to the other rear wheel. On the tractor, you "manually or mechanically?" engage the differential lock (step on a pedal) only when you need it, and it firmly locks the differential so that both rear wheels must turn together at the same speed, so you don't want to use it unless you intend to go straight forward or backward with no turns. You release the pedal before turning. And when you engage the 4WD, the transmission directs power to both front and rear axles, so it is possible to have one rear wheel and one front wheel turning and not go anywhere, step on the differential lock and you'll have both rear wheels and either one or both front wheels turning depending on the traction the front wheels have at the time. There is no way to lock the front differential and guarantee both front wheels will turn on the smaller model tractors.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I appreciate the quick responses. Let me see if I understand this. If I were looking at the larger Cub and JD riding mowers with diff-lock, I can't leave that on all of the time and cut my slope? It's more designed if you get in a spot and can't get tractiojn, to lock in for temp use? On the 4x4, I can leave that on the whole time I'm cutting the slope, even the turns, as long as I don't also have the diff-lock on too?

 

[Bird]

Now I'm not sure about all the "riding mowers", but you understand it right for the BX series and other compact tractors. As long as you're not on a hard surface (pavement), you can leave it in 4WD if you like; no problem at all unless you have some scuffing on turns and don't like what that does to the lawn.

Bird

 

[Jeff396]

I was told that the 4X4 is great in the dirt or while going in a straight line but doing a lot of turning can be pretty hard on the grass. I used mine on the really large slopes(30 degrees) which were too steep to mow sideways. I just drove up then backed down and turned slightly at the bottom to line up for the next run. Not a bit of slippage. The only time the diff lock was necessary was while using the fel.

Jeff

2001 B7500HSD, La302 fel, 60"mmm, grass catcher

 

[Bird]

Sounds like the same way I do it, Jeff.

Bird

 

[GlueGuy]

I used mine on the really large slopes(30 degrees) which were too steep to mow sideways. I just drove up then backed down and turned slightly at the bottom to line up for the next run

I do it that way except the other way around. I drive down, and back up

The manual recommends this, as otherwise you may do a "wheelie". And I really hate it when that happens /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

The GlueGuy

 

[Jeff396]

I would worry about that except I have the FEL. It didn't feel squirelly to me at all. I also for some odd reason feel better going up.

Jeff

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I don't think you need to equate not being able to lock all four wheels together with not having enough traction. When you are in four wheel drive it is true that you are really only technically in two wheel drive (front one wheel/rear one wheel) but it will be _extremely_ rare that you experience any single wheel slippage at all. The vast majority of the time all the tires will be experiencing the same traction and none of them will slip, or they will more or less all be slipping at once. The exception to this is mud, and the diff lock has saved me big time more than once on my lowly two wheel drive Kubota. I think you may actually find that you are in two wheel drive the vast majority of the time because it is easier on the grass, only switching into four wheel drive when you tackle the slope or after you start slipping the rears. The lack of a front diff lock would not even be a consideration for me unless I was in the mud _all the time_.