Dirt floor thickness?

[Megado]

Ok...another question in preparation of new 36'x36' monitor style barn project I plan to start this Spring. I know the pro's of having concrete as barn floor, however, that's not an option for me. So my plan is to use crusher run material that I can get from a nearby quarry that will be compacted as my flooring. The barn location is pretty level with decent drainage. My question is how thick should I consider making the dirt floor?

My work plan was to set the post, tie off tops with upper girts and install skirt boards. Then load, spread, and compact the crusher run to establish my floor before beginning rest of construction. Are there any problems with establishing the dirt floor early in the project vs waiting until later? My thought was for ease of loading and spreading material before the walls of the barn (girts) were installed.

As always...thanks in advance for thoughts and advice!

Jim H.

 

[gordon21]

The crusher run will be far cheaper. I estimate you will need 24+ yards that should cost under $900 if you have it delivered. Concrete would run 3-4 times as much. That would be for 6" More is better 8-10". Anything less than 4" and you are wasting your time.

Crusher run can eventually pack down and make a nice smooth hard surface with just a few stray rocks on top. You can sweep those aside or pick them up by hand. However, in order to get that hard packed surface, you need lots of water and traffic/weight to accomplish that. If you get your roof installed too quick, your floor may not get enough rain to do the job. Of course you can always run hoses and sprinklers instead. Dry unpacked crusher run is an unstable base that is a pain in the butt to walk or work on. It can be a safety hazard too in case you lose your footing.

Without seeing your exact setup, I would venture that you need your crusher run asap. Traffic from tires is good. Do you have access to a roller for a few hours? Roll, wet some more, roll again, wet some more. You may need to buy a final load of "fines" or whatever it is called in your area. This is the small particles in crusher run. The pieces smaller than BB's. They will do the final finishing for you by filling in all the last remaining voids. When you get your first couple loads, ask for material near the bottom of the pile. It will have a far higher percentage of fines in it; that is a good thing. Near the top of the pile, it starts looking more and more like sorted rock. That is bad.

Once fully compacted, dry, swept smooth and with a roof overhead, you will have your "economy" concrete floor.

The link below allows you to see various pictures of different rock. Click the "granite fines" directly above the picture and it will show just fines. #57 rock is exactly what you DON'T want.

LUXURY LANDSCAPE - MULCH STONE GRAVEL COMPOST

 

[Ford850]

I started with the same floor on my barn. I spread the pad and had it level prior to starting the poles. Upside is it is nice to work from, and stays dry if it's muddy around the site. Downside is that it will get some dirt mixed in when digging the holes. I kept my floor level slightly low until the building was done then topped it off and got the final grade. It worked for me but your idea will work too.

 

[Highbeam]

Remember to leave space above the rock floor just in case you ever decide to put concrete on top. Planning ahead. I've been lots of barn/shops where a garage bay was left gravel so that tracked equipment could be worked on.

 

[Megado]

Gordon21 - thanks for the detailed feedback. You confirmed my thoughts that perhaps doing the floor early before the roof was installed would help in the compacting by letting mother nature have a hand with rain. I'll be looking/asking around the area to see if I can find a roller that I could either borrow or rent.

I will take into consideration leaving enough room to add concrete later. Never want to cut off future options. Would only mean having a few more inches of headroom to use for the time being which is never a bad thing.

Jim H.

 

[jtlee]

to get good compaction spread about 3 in and while your sprinkler is wetting that layer down, run to rental store rent one of these



http://www.constructioncomplete.com...orsGasPowered-WackerWP1550APlateCompactor.jpg


then add final 3 inches wet and repack agian

 

[California]

How do you deal with minor oil contamination on a non-concrete shop floor?

 

[schmism]

How do you deal with minor oil contamination on a non-concrete shop floor?

so.... why would you worry.... it soaks in and "goes away"

if it was an issue, just scoop up the area that got contaminated and replace and re-tamp. no big deal

 

[KennethBrown]

How do you deal with minor oil contamination on a non-concrete shop floor?

A shovel?

 

[gordon21]

I assume minor meant less than a quart.

I think a shovel/pickaxe would remove the oily dirt and some new rock would fix it up just fine. Wet and pack down the new dirt. Burn the oily dirt in an outdoor fire.