Disk for 70 hp Kubota

[Teamjefe]

I was thinking about getting a 10' Armstrong Ag disk. Its a pull behind, offset disk with hydraulic cylinders for raising it. Do you think my M7040 Kubota can pull a disk this big? I have 4 wheel drive.

 

[oosik]

According to the spec charts at Armstrong your M7040 hp will be less than what is required. It really depends upon your soil condition and how difficult the disking will be. If there will be difficult areas I would consider dropping to the 8 foot Armstrong where you have the hp required. However, its not just the hp but the weight and traction needed to pull a larger disk. I'm sure your M7040 will pull the ten footer but when you get into less than ideal conditions you may not have the weight & traction to get the job done. I have an eight foot 3PH disk and at times I have to gear down to get thru difficult spots(or lift the disk).

 

[gwdixon]

My M7040 pulls an 8' disc with no problem. It is working hard based on the fuel consumption. It is almost like the fuel gauge is constantly in motion. Well, that may be an exaggeration.

Anyway, a 10' would be a bit iffy depending on the weight of the disc and whether there was weight on the front of the tractor. A FEL with some dirt in it works. Keep an eye on the front tires in 4WD. If they are both spinning then the disc is too big.

Of course, you could adjust for less cut. But it just depends on what you are doing, where it is being done, the moisture, and the soil type.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you want to adjust the depth of cut with the tires, then no problem. If you want to be able to pull at axle deep, then no it isn't going to do it.. A lot depends on the conditions that you have, but without knowing the full story, I would say that it is quite a bit to big for your tractor. I know that my 75hp 12,000lb tractor would have serious problems with it at our location, but those are our working conditions and may not apply to you at all. I would be looking for an 8 footer myself.

 

[Teamjefe]

I've got an 8ft 3pt disk right now. It doesn't cut very well. I'm guess because it is so light? I tried putting a piece of a large concrete culvert on top. This helped it cut a little better.

Is there that big of a difference in how a 3pt disk cuts versus a pull behind?

Thanks

 

[bigbull338]

if you want a disc to really plow up the ground.you need a disc with the cutting blades.they are called plowing discs.

 

[Teamjefe]

My current one has the scalloped blades. Are these the same as "plowing disk blades"?

I was thinking about building a wooden mold so I could pour a concrete weight for the disk. Any opinions on how heavy I should make it?

 

[lostcreekranch]

if you want a disc to really plow up the ground.you need a disc with the cutting blades.they are called plowing discs.

Jefe;

1. You might consider making your mold box and secure to your disk then start adding weight, whatever you have around, like concrete blocks and such. Try it and then add or subtract weight until it cuts the way you want. Then you can estimate final concrete needs. Concrete is about 150 lb. / cubic ft. An 80 lb. bag of quikrete yields about 0.6. cubic ft.

2. Another idea might be a length of channel iron with some of the solid concrete block sitting in the inverted channel. That way it is variable depending on your conditions.

3. If you can get access to some old used railroad track section that can be secured to your disk. They can be easily torch cut to length and handled with your FEL. The rail I used was about 45 lb. / ft.

I have used both 2 and 3 in the past.

Good luck!

Rick

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My current one has the scalloped blades. Are these the same as "plowing disk blades"?

I was thinking about building a wooden mold so I could pour a concrete weight for the disk. Any opinions on how heavy I should make it?

Unless you're disk is built to have weight added, just like any implement with added weight that is not built for that added weight, the additional strain that is put on the implement from the added weight is going to cause that implement to fail prematurely. Follow that? :laughing: From what I have seen, typically a pull disk looks like they work better than a 3pt disk.

Can you post a picture of your setup please? What diameter are your blades?

 

[gwdixon]

Unless you're disk is built to have weight added, just like any implement with added weight that is not built for that added weight, the additional strain that is put on the implement from the added weight is going to cause that implement to fail prematurely. Follow that? :laughing: From what I have seen, typically a pull disk looks like they work better than a 3pt disk.

^^^^ I can verify the above. I welded a piece of channel iron to the top of my 7' Howse 3PH disc so it would allow concrete pier blocks to be mounted and secured. The pier blocks are about 60 lb. each and there are 6 of them. Does it cut better...sure. But I've been through 4 disc bearings! They were eaten up by the weight.

A 3PH disc is lighter in weight and construction in order for a large range of tractors to be able to lift it. Plus, most of them are tandem discs that really only "double disc" two paths about 2.5' wide where the front gangs and rear gangs both pass over the same soil. The path down the middle and on the two ends get disced with one gang. There is a little 2" to 3" strip right down the middle where the front gangs miss.

I much prefer an offset disc for the leveling ability and uniform path that is worked.

Scalloped disc blades are made for penetration since the downward force is concentrated on a smaller area. (Think sharp stick vs. dull stick). A 3PH disc does not have as much downward force due to weight so a scalloped blade penetrates better.

An offset pull disc has plenty of weight so can use the smooth or "plowing blades" and get the penetration. I haven't heard the term "plowing blades" much...mainly smooth blades.