Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift?

   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #1  

OTFD122

New member
Joined
Jul 17, 2011
Messages
24
Tractor
John Deere 1023E
Is there a diverter valve kit available for the 1023E so you don't have to swap the mower/loader hyrdraulic lines? I have been doing some searching/reading on here and found info on the 2305 - but nothing specific for the 1 Series. My dealer wasn't a whole lot of help, they had no idea what I was talking about. Thanks
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #2  
Based on the space that the hoses & connectors take up on my 2720, I do not believe there is room or ground clearance on the 1023E/1026R to add a factory diverter valve setup.

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   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #3  
I don't think they offer it for the 1 series, they do offer a 3rd SCV but it was pricey. I went the manual lift on mine because of that reason. I hope you find what you are looking for and update us.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #4  
You could put a manual diverter valve on the loader frame. The quick connects are pricey though. See surpluscenter.com

My local hydraulics shop wouldn't put one on mine. I assume liability issues have something to do with it.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Hmmm... Ok. Thanks for the replies guys. The reason I wanted the diverter is more for my wife, so she's not switching around hydraulic lines to mow/load. I guess if there's no real super easy (or cheap) option, I'll have to keep her off the tractor! :)
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #6  
Easy option... take off the bucket. It makes it much easier to mow that way.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #7  
I have the same issue with the 1026R that I have and based on what I was told by my dealer working directly with JD brass, they not only have no diverter valve option, but also have discontinued the 3rd scv option.

My 1026R has the independent lift as well and I wanted a diverter so I could mow with the loader on to help move things out of the way as needed. It doesn't bother me as I don't get close to the house or anything with it. Just trailers, and other things like pallet stacks of materials, etc. Lumber, etc which I do move occasionally. I will eventually get the JD QA forks and mow with them on likely.

Anyway, back to the lift. I have thought about how to do this and I am not convinced the best setup on these independent lifts is a hydraulic one. Looking at the size of the cylinder and the force needed to raise and lower the deck, I think swapping that over to an electric cylinder would be more functional and would be a drop in fit. I have some measuring to do and source some parts, but in order to make my 1026R fully functional without the hydraulic connector swap, this may be an easy project to do. I worked with Electric cylinder actuators years ago and they take little power, have lots of force on some models and fit in small areas depending on the extension length needed. They also provide force both directions. It could easily be connected to button similar to the turn signal indicator on the dash for raising and lowering the deck arms. The punchout below the steering column for the additional buttons would be perfect for that switch location.

For so many things to be quick detach on these, I think that was a poor design job for JD to not have another connection point for the Independant lift.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #8  
I would look into cutting the hard lines with a diverter valve under your machine to select which circuit you want. You could add a valve for power beyond and run the deck from it also. Lots of options, just takes some effort.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #9  
I wouldn't have a problem doing that, if it wouldn't affect my warranty on the machine. But in the other case, by going electric actuator, no warranty would be voided because I wouldn't have spliced into the hydraulics. Only pinned on an actuator that uses the same footprint as the previous hydro cylinder. I'm not opposed to splicing into the hydraulics, but not until warranty is out. I don't want to be caught by something like that if something major happens and I need dealer support.

Hydraulics are nothing new, as I built my grey market tractor loader from scratch and plumbed it. But I am trying to find a solution that doesn't add alot of large spool valves to the already small driver space, nor do I want to do a lot of modifications to the tractor to add them. I want to keep the factory ease of use throughout.
 
   / Diverter Valve for 1023E Independent Lift? #10  
I hear ya brother.
 

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