DIY pad tips please

   / DIY pad tips please #1  

BrettW

Platinum Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2002
Messages
656
Location
now in S.C.!!
Tractor
Yanmar FF205D
Hi,
I'm going to pour my own pad for a 24x36 barn/woodshop. I could sure use some tips on this. I've never done it before. '

thanks, brett w
 
   / DIY pad tips please #2  
A few questions;

How thick? (max. weight of equipment using)
Are you mixing your own
Do you have a bull float?
Lots of help for spreading/floating
Can you rent a cutter for expansion cuts?

Basic floor plan includes:

Excavation to 8-12" and compaction if possible

4-6" 2B gravel over a vapor barrier

4-6" crete on top
 
   / DIY pad tips please #3  
If you haven't done it before, I hope you learn a lot BEFORE you have concrete trucks dumping their loads before your very eyes, and then discovering that things aren't ready. At a minimum, hire someone who does have experience to help you. There is a lot to know, and when you are finished, you will have a pretty good idea what those things are. Hopefully it won't be at the expense of a big pad that you don't like anymore. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / DIY pad tips please
  • Thread Starter
#4  
hi,
barn will be 24x36
tractor insided is apx. 2500 lbs, otherwise just basic storage and wood working equip. , some piles of oak lumber,
2 brothers for help
can rent any equipment needed
will buy concrete ready to go
thanks, bw
 
   / DIY pad tips please #5  
Based upon your reply I'm guessing you are going to go with 6" stone and 4"CC.

Will you be adding re-enforcement wire or bar?

Whatever the case, the basics stay the same;

1. excavate area to proper depth (compaction)

2. add vapor barrier

3. add stone

4. construct forming

5.construct re-enforcing material

6. Get ready for crete arrival and hope it doesn't rain after mix time!!

There are a couple thing that will happen when the truck(s) arrive. Access is a critical issue to the driver. Once on site he/she will be looking to move the load as quickly as possible. Most CC companies here have a 30 Min. site/unload time, otherwise you pay more.

You will need a couple of W.B.'s to move the crete to areas of the pad with difficult access. Once in place the crete will need to be worked/floated. This is where a power float comes in handy, but if you don't know how to use one stay away from it and go with the manual bull.

Once set you will need to cut the expansion joint(s).

It's always a "jolly time" when you do larger scale CC projects. If I were you, I'd have LOTS of grub and beverages on hand for your volunteer laborers. Also, if you can locate someone who has done this before, offer him/her a bribe to volunteer!
 
   / DIY pad tips please #6  
Not nowing your soil conditions, I'll tell you how we do it here in East Texas on red clay. Now you're gonna hear some negatives from those up North who deal with freezing conditions and have different soil to work with, so keep that in mind.

First, level off your pad and remove the top soil. Here, the top soil is only an inch at most. Try real hard not to dig too deep and then fill in again. Fill material doesn't have the compaction that virgin soild does. If you have to build up the pad to get it level, do it in small lifts. Depending on what you have to compact it with, do it in one inch to four inch levels.

Be sure to figure in drainage when doing your dirt work. It's an aweful lot easier to do now then later.

I'd use 2X4's for your forms for a 4 inch pad that will techically be 3 1/2 inches thick. Your driveway, your garage and most everything else is this same thickness. The only time I'd recomend using 2X6's is if your working on heavy equipment. It's just way overkill for your needs in my opinion.

Level and square your forms. Use plenty of stakes to anchor your forms. Use screws to fasten them and be sure they are lower then your forms so your scree baord doesnt' catch on them.

Dig the inside perimeter of your forms the depth and width of a shovel.

Are you putting in water? Will you need drains? Measure and put these in now. Refill the holes with sand if you have it and use a hose to soak the sand to get it to compact and fill in the voilds around your pipes.

Put down a vapor barrier if yo want one. It wont hurt, but nobody uses them in my area.

Lay out your rebar on a 24 inch grid. Be sure to use chairs.

Once your rebar is in place, or almost done, contact the cement company and arrange for a morning dump. You want the cooler weather for your pour. Their regular customers will already have most mornings covered, so you might have to wait a few days.

When the trucks get there, be sure to have a plan on the route they will take. Also be prepaired for them not paying attention to your route and getting stuck someplace you never imagined anybody going.

My last pour my sub had a trailer full of 3/4 inch plywood to put down for the dump trucks to drive on. We had one get stuck spinning his tires on some sand. The plywood saved us.

A good finish with a power float can take hours and hours to get. Watch a crew work. They never stop moving and will have water bottles that they use to keep the surface wet so they can keep working it.

There's a very fine line from too soft to too late!!

With this said, I'd reccomend you didn't do it yourself and hire it done. Pouring concrete is extremely physical work requiring experience, skill and allot of knowledge on working the material and what it's doing. The bigger the pour, the more critical it is to have a crew who know what they are doing.
 
   / DIY pad tips please #7  
Do you have some sidewalks you've been wanting. That will tell you on a small scale how much work placing concrete is. And if you mess up, it's not such a critical thing like your shop floor.

Eddie is right, I don't think the place to learn concrete finishing is on your building floor. Might be better to form it, set any reinforcing you are using, and buy some finishers.

One more tool for the list, vibrator.
 

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