DK-40 Starting issues
- Thread starter tkh159
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murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 16,336
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
OP
tkh159
Bronze Member
Well got out to the tractor this weekend with nothing more than a multimeter. Battery is still reading great voltage!
I got a reading on the glow plugs of many readings ranging from 8-10 volts. Not stable to say the least. But the most common was 10.80v
At least current is getting to them and the replaced relays are functioning properly.
I got a reading on the glow plugs of many readings ranging from 8-10 volts. Not stable to say the least. But the most common was 10.80v
At least current is getting to them and the replaced relays are functioning properly.
CANMAR
Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2006
- Messages
- 49
- Location
- Minnesota
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet 8454 Cub Cadet 7305 Mitsubishi MT372
Seen this post as I am checking out the glow plugs and preheating system on my DK45.I have a DK40 service manual,when I bought the tractor some one had wired a push button switch into the preheating circuit on the firewall.Must have had trouble getting the glow plugs to work or did not know that ignition switch needs to be held past on position for a while before starting tractor.I did a quick check on original wiring before removing add on push button wires and everything looked good,last owner did not butcher any wires or connections
This year when cold starting after holding ignition switch for 20-30 seconds to heat glow plugs tractor would start and kill like it ran out of fuel.After trying a few time it would start and keep running fine.I am looking into what I need to fix.
Checked voltage at glow plugs when holding ignition switch past on,and get 8volts,down from 12v while glow plugs are drawing current.Glow plugs must be working because tractor starts easily when about 20 deg outside.Found the engine killing just after starting was from wearing gloves as the ignition switch on position is touchy and barely touching key will open stop solenoid and kill tractor.
The glow plug light on dash has never worked since I bought it a couple years ago.After looking at wiring diagram for preheating system,the only way glow plug light gets power is thru preheat controller on the firewall.So when holding ignition switch past on glow plug light will not be lit even though glow plugs are heating.
So even though I can start and run tractor even when it is cold out,I should fix preheating system because it will keep glow plugs heating for a while after tractor starts,and automatically heat glow plugs when ignition switch is turned on when engine is below 60deg.
Checking wires to preheat controller black/red is coming from ignition switch when holding past on,also goes to glow plug relay on firewall,right side of tractor.This means that the ignition switch and the preheat controller power the glow plug relay,so I wont have to hold switch to heat glow plugs every time.
Powered green/yellow wire to get glow plug light on dash to light.
Checked red/white wire for 12v when ignition switch is turned on.
Checked blue/black wire for 12v when ignition switch is in start position.
Checked blue/green wire to see that it is connected to temp sensor near thermostat,seems terminal is grounded when tractor is cold.Tried unplugging terminal to get a non grounded signal for the preheat controller to get it to power light on dash with no luck.
So it is looking like preheat controller is getting everything it needs to work but is not working.
I would like to know if my coolant temp sensor is working as it is supposed to before I buy a new preheat controller,seems the whole preheating system is run from the coolant temp sensor reading below 60deg,above 60deg the controller will not power glow plug relay or dash light.
This year when cold starting after holding ignition switch for 20-30 seconds to heat glow plugs tractor would start and kill like it ran out of fuel.After trying a few time it would start and keep running fine.I am looking into what I need to fix.
Checked voltage at glow plugs when holding ignition switch past on,and get 8volts,down from 12v while glow plugs are drawing current.Glow plugs must be working because tractor starts easily when about 20 deg outside.Found the engine killing just after starting was from wearing gloves as the ignition switch on position is touchy and barely touching key will open stop solenoid and kill tractor.
The glow plug light on dash has never worked since I bought it a couple years ago.After looking at wiring diagram for preheating system,the only way glow plug light gets power is thru preheat controller on the firewall.So when holding ignition switch past on glow plug light will not be lit even though glow plugs are heating.
So even though I can start and run tractor even when it is cold out,I should fix preheating system because it will keep glow plugs heating for a while after tractor starts,and automatically heat glow plugs when ignition switch is turned on when engine is below 60deg.
Checking wires to preheat controller black/red is coming from ignition switch when holding past on,also goes to glow plug relay on firewall,right side of tractor.This means that the ignition switch and the preheat controller power the glow plug relay,so I wont have to hold switch to heat glow plugs every time.
Powered green/yellow wire to get glow plug light on dash to light.
Checked red/white wire for 12v when ignition switch is turned on.
Checked blue/black wire for 12v when ignition switch is in start position.
Checked blue/green wire to see that it is connected to temp sensor near thermostat,seems terminal is grounded when tractor is cold.Tried unplugging terminal to get a non grounded signal for the preheat controller to get it to power light on dash with no luck.
So it is looking like preheat controller is getting everything it needs to work but is not working.
I would like to know if my coolant temp sensor is working as it is supposed to before I buy a new preheat controller,seems the whole preheating system is run from the coolant temp sensor reading below 60deg,above 60deg the controller will not power glow plug relay or dash light.
Last edited:
Case 830
New member
I am having the same issue with my 2007 DK65sc. Glow plugs work when switch is held in manual heat position but not automatically. Also had the shut down when key is released, that I attribute to the key switch/fuel shutoff so I ordered a new key switch. I did see the the glow plug light come on once so I am going to clean all connections when the switch arrives and check the relays. Hopefully not the controller as i dot want to take apart the dash. I hadn’t thought to check the temp sensor, maybe it can be tested.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
for CANMAR and CASE: Kioti key switches (at least from the era of my 2006 model) are problematic. Dirt and corrosion get in the electrical part of the switch and cause unreliable connections. This is a particular problem for the later mechanically injected models where any glitch in the hold current to the stop solenoid stops the engine and it also confuses the glow cycle.
The switch is a simple device that can be disassembled and cleaned (see ignition_switch). Springs in the switch can get lost so use care if you decide to disassemble.
However, squirting WD-40 in the key hole using the "straw"(and cycling the switch several times) usually works as well as cleaning the switch. So I recommend trying a WD-40 treatment before trying anything harder or more expensive.
The switch is a simple device that can be disassembled and cleaned (see ignition_switch). Springs in the switch can get lost so use care if you decide to disassemble.
However, squirting WD-40 in the key hole using the "straw"(and cycling the switch several times) usually works as well as cleaning the switch. So I recommend trying a WD-40 treatment before trying anything harder or more expensive.
Case 830
New member
I lubricated, then disassembled and cleaned, then lubed again and the glow plug problem persists. The engine stays running now but the lock part of the switch seems a bit rough. I will i will test the relays and controller after i install the new switch.