DK-40 Starting issues

   / DK-40 Starting issues #71  
Apparently, Kioti used 4-pin relays (no normally-open contacts) in older models. Newer models use the 5-pin version, I guess so they can use the same relay type if they need NO or NC contacts.

It's a no-brainer that you need to replace that rusted-out relay. That relay could be your whole problem. As long as it's in there, you won't know what's what. Do you know the other relays are OK on the inside?
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues #72  
If you only use the tractor with long gaps of time an investment in a battery shut switch might be a good buy. Hope replacing the rusty relay will fix you up.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues #73  
In case you don't know, several Kioti dealers provide free online parts manuals that are more current and easier to use than the paper manuals.

Ignore the "quick parts search"; it almost never finds what you need. Just step through the menus of "Find Parts by Model." In many cases, you'll need to use your serial number to identify the correct part. Sometimes these parts pictures are more useful than the workshop model.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues #74  
item number 20 Part number T4180-69951 RELAY(4P) $17.47 Appears to be the start relay (relay F in the diagram).. I looked this up on the michigan Iron and equipment site.

The DK40 is entirely different it seems from the DK40se. So everything I sent you is not applicable.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues
  • Thread Starter
#75  
item number 20 Part number T4180-69951 RELAY(4P) $17.47 Appears to be the start relay (relay F in the diagram).. I looked this up on the michigan Iron and equipment site.

The DK40 is entirely different it seems from the DK40se. So everything I sent you is not applicable.

Looking at the same thing and its some what confusing as there are 3 #20 parts? So are there two glow relays and one starter or is one a back up? Are they inter changeable?

From the schematic there are 4 relays pictured 3 #20 and 1 #36 but I also note that it is models dk35 through t995a.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues
  • Thread Starter
#76  
In case you don't know, several Kioti dealers provide free online parts manuals that are more current and easier to use than the paper manuals.

Ignore the "quick parts search"; it almost never finds what you need. Just step through the menus of "Find Parts by Model." In many cases, you'll need to use your serial number to identify the correct part. Sometimes these parts pictures are more useful than the workshop model.

Absolutely! I may need to get my hands on a workshop manual though. I did download one from tradebit. It has schematics and diagrams but nothing on how to fix electrical issues.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues
  • Thread Starter
#77  
Apparently, Kioti used 4-pin relays (no normally-open contacts) in older models. Newer models use the 5-pin version, I guess so they can use the same relay type if they need NO or NC contacts.

It's a no-brainer that you need to replace that rusted-out relay. That relay could be your whole problem. As long as it's in there, you won't know what's what. Do you know the other relays are OK on the inside?

Other two I pulled are good to go.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues
  • Thread Starter
#78  
If you only use the tractor with long gaps of time an investment in a battery shut switch might be a good buy. Hope replacing the rusty relay will fix you up.

This is true I have thought about it but hope this relay will fix it up.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues
  • Thread Starter
#79  
item number 20 Part number T4180-69951 RELAY(4P) $17.47 Appears to be the start relay (relay F in the diagram).. I looked this up on the michigan Iron and equipment site.

The DK40 is entirely different it seems from the DK40se. So everything I sent you is not applicable.

What concerns me is that my glow plugs didn't engage. So honesty might buy #20 and #36 parts.
 
   / DK-40 Starting issues #80  
There are several relays that are part illustration number 20. That is because the relays are the same type of relay. So multiple relays for different functions but using the same part number. Make sense?
 

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