Dk40seh ignition wiring diagram

[blurry]

Suspect I'm having ignition switch issues, I found a diagram, unfortunately I can't read it when I zoom in. Could someone be so kind as to post a diagram so I can test the switch? Thanks!

 

[fishfrank]

Will be interested in this as well. Have the same tractor with 150 hours. Already on second ignition switch and its starting to give me issues. I have used fluid film from the start on this second switch. Its kind of disheartening.

 

[chuck172]

I'm interested too. Seems like my ignition is not as smooth as it was.

 

[blurry]

attached is the keyswitch test thanks to a kind user on the forum. unfortunately my switch is testing good

 

[Avondale]

My key switch issue have always been with the external connector area. It needs constant cleaning as the design allows dirt and moisture to be vented right past it, (mine is an open station model). Very tough getting my hand in there to clean but usually works after a good spray with electric contact cleaner and then wipe down.

 

[blurry]

Received a new switch, this one uses a double cut key compared to the original single cut key. The turn mechanism feels more solid. No little key door on this one though.

For the issue I was having this wasn't the only problem, the battery terminal was tight yet not making a good connection, I cleaned it again and had to tighten the snot out of it for it to clamp tightly.

Nice to have her running again

 

[blurry]

FYI- the new ignition switch did not arrive with a key!

 

[dzoller]

Thank you!

 

[davel8257]

attached is the keyswitch test thanks to a kind user on the forum. unfortunately my switch is testing good

Thanks. I had switch problems, bought a new switch and metered. I agree with the chart shown in the picture. However, my present switch (5 yrs old) I have to turn the switch to the LEFT to glow, then acc, run and then to the CRANK position. When the engine starts, the key returns to the "RUN" position. Your diagram seems to indicate that it would return to the GL (GLOW) position. That seems like a bad design to me.

 

[grsthegreat]

Thanks. I had switch problems, bought a new switch and metered. I agree with the chart shown in the picture. However, my present switch (5 yrs old) I have to turn the switch to the LEFT to glow, then acc, run and then to the CRANK position. When the engine starts, the key returns to the "RUN" position. Your diagram seems to indicate that it would return to the GL (GLOW) position. That seems like a bad design to me.

It doesnt cycle the glow plugs after the start. Theres just an area just before start that will cycle plugs WHILE YOU hold the key it that position only. This is in addition to the timed glow plug cycle