DK45 Hydraulic Leak

[steve0413]

I apparently damaged one of the metal hydraulic lines coming from the pump. Tried getting pictures with no luck...sorry. It appears to be coming from the front line at the 2nd bend. There is no obvious damage, but wiping everything clean then starting tractor I get a drip-drip coming from that area. It's harder than heck to see up there. I was cleaning up a big mess left by loggers and I must have had a stick get up in there.

Just wondering if that's an easy fix for a non-mechanic type? Also, does anyone have a general idea what that line (about 4' long) would cost? Also, since I'm not 100% sure that I broke it, is it possible that it would be warrantied (little over 2 years old)?

Thanks........Steve

 

[tnewbern]

Whatever you do don't go looking for a leak with your fingers or hands.

If you remove the FEL and side engine panel the pump and lines are fairly easy to access. A likely cause may be just a loose bolt on the pump check the torques. This may allow the o-ring that seals the connection to leak. It may also just be a dried o-ring. The leak may also be coming from the pump, other line or the return line and just collecting on the aux hydralic line.

You would have to bring the tractor to your dealer for warranty. They may charge you requardless for the diagnosis. If you decide to take on the challenge yourself the hardest part will be removing the line from the tractor. This line has a maze of bends and you may need to remove the brake tie rod or FEL support arm to get the line out. I know I had to remove the break tie-rod to remove the HST hardline and that area is much more open.

Place a drain pan under the FEL control valve and remove the outer banjo bolt there first. This should drain a small amount of fluid from the line and valve. Then remove the 2 bolts connecting the line to the pump. Keep the drain pan under the FEL valve and use another under the pump or a rag. Once you break the o-ring seal you will have more fluid drain out the line and some from the pump. This is not a huge amount but not something you just want to let run on the ground.

I would recommend pressure testing your aux hydraulics first if you have a guage. This is a simple procedure you need a guage (3000 PSI) with quick coupler ($20-$30 depending on source). Insert this into one of your rear remotes and activate the lever in the proper direction. You should see 2500-2700 PSI (@ 2600 RPM's) and this will deadhead the hydraulics so only activate for a second or so. Also make sure your hood is closed and nobody is near the tractor. If your line is damaged it could rupture when the hydraulic preussre builds to the relief setting.

Good luck and be safe.

 

[steve0413]

Whatever you do don't go looking for a leak with your fingers or hands.

If you remove the FEL and side engine panel the pump and lines are fairly easy to access. A likely cause may be just a loose bolt on the pump check the torques. This may allow the o-ring that seals the connection to leak. It may also just be a dried o-ring. The leak may also be coming from the pump, other line or the return line and just collecting on the aux hydralic line.

You would have to bring the tractor to your dealer for warranty. They may charge you requardless for the diagnosis. If you decide to take on the challenge yourself the hardest part will be removing the line from the tractor. This line has a maze of bends and you may need to remove the brake tie rod or FEL support arm to get the line out. I know I had to remove the break tie-rod to remove the HST hardline and that area is much more open.

Place a drain pan under the FEL control valve and remove the outer banjo bolt there first. This should drain a small amount of fluid from the line and valve. Then remove the 2 bolts connecting the line to the pump. Keep the drain pan under the FEL valve and use another under the pump or a rag. Once you break the o-ring seal you will have more fluid drain out the line and some from the pump. This is not a huge amount but not something you just want to let run on the ground.

I would recommend pressure testing your aux hydraulics first if you have a guage. This is a simple procedure you need a guage (3000 PSI) with quick coupler ($20-$30 depending on source). Insert this into one of your rear remotes and activate the lever in the proper direction. You should see 2500-2700 PSI (@ 2600 RPM's) and this will deadhead the hydraulics so only activate for a second or so. Also make sure your hood is closed and nobody is near the tractor. If your line is damaged it could rupture when the hydraulic preussre builds to the relief setting.

Good luck and be safe.

Thanks for the info and safety tips. With the tractor off, I cleaned everything the best I could and no leaks or obvious damage. When I start it at idle, it will start leaking within about 1/2 minute....just drip-drip (faster if RPM's are increased). Then I shut it off and inspected everything again. the connections on the pump are dry all the way to the 2nd bend. Nothing leaking from above that point. I'm sure that's where it's coming from. I see what you mean about all the twists and turns in that line. Since it's over 100 miles to the nearest dealer, I'm considering taking it to a local tractor dealer/mechanic who was a Kioti dealer at one time but was forced out by Kioti like so many others. He can't do warranty work but then I doubt this would be covered by warranty. That's why I was interested in getting an idea on the price for this item to see if I wanted to tackle it to save $$$$.

This did prompt me to go ahead and order a shop manual which I've been putting off.

Thanks again.....Steve

 

[tnewbern]

Call your dealer and ask. If you are sure that is the leak just order the part. I would guess its about $100 and be surprised if it were more than $200. Thats the problem with toys (tools) the cheapest part is buying them.

If I were you I would give it a try. Find a nice level spot and remove the FEL. Let me know if you have not done that before and I can give you some pointers. I would also remove the backhoe or any implement. Then move your tractor to a suitable work area and pop the hood. Remove the front and side panels just little rubber latches.

You will only need a couple of wrenches and a drain pan. I would block the tires and put the tractor in low gear. You may need to relase the parking break and remove the tie-rod (just a cotter-pin on each end). If you still can't find a way to get it out remove the support that goes from the rear axle housing to the FEL arm. I think there are only 2 bolts on the front and 3 on the rear. From a quick look I would probably just remove the support arm and tie-rod to begin with and avoid the trouble later.

One last note be prepared because you will not be able to start or move the tractor without the line installed. If you are not comfortable then don't hesitate to take it to your dealer or mechanic.

 

[steve0413]

Thanks again for the detailed instructions. That makes this site well worth the money.

I'm going to "study" on it tomorrow and try to weight the pluses and minuses then decide whether I want to tackle it. Looking at it briefly today, it looks as though the FEL mount is the biggest obstacle. That might just be from a visual standpoint though.

I appreciate it very much.

 

[tnewbern]

One option you might consider is to do the repair on a trailer. This way if you get in over your head you can just bring it to you local mechanic.

Go slow take pictures and have fun.

 

[steve0413]

I isolated the leak (drip, drip) by cleaning the line where I thought the leak was then wrapped it with a sheet of paper. I then started the tractor (idle) and waited for the first drip (5-10 seconds) then immediately shut it off. I then crawled under the tractor checked the paper then removed it. The leak is definitely in the second bend of the hydraulic tube J1 coming from the pump. Since I couldn't see up there very well, I ran my finger along the leaking area (tractor off and joystick pressure released) and I could feel what I thought was a crack in the line.

I finally got time to remove the line today and found what I believe to be a defect (see pictures). I hope you can tell from the pictures that this "crack" has been painted over. I would have expected to see paint flaked at this area either from the "crack" or pressure. But then keep in mind that this is a very slow drip, not a high pressure leak/spray.

It appears to me that the during manufacture, the line was damaged while making this 90 degree bend then painted over. I had assumed at first that I had probably gotten a limb up in there that caused it, but now I believe it has just weakened enough to start leaking.

I have a replacement on order, but here's my question. Since my closest dealer is 140 miles away and since I removed this part, and since it's pretty obvious that it's a defect, do you think Kioti will warranty it?

 

[steve0413]

This picture may show the defect a bit better.

 

[tnewbern]

That all depends on the dealer. I would call your dealer and tell them what you found. I have heard it go both ways with all brands.

Did you order the replacement line from your local dealer?

I do see what you mean in the pictures and if there are no other marks or signs of damage on the rest of the line I agree. The real question will be if they do and if they minded you doing the work.

 

[steve0413]

That all depends on the dealer. I would call your dealer and tell them what you found. I have heard it go both ways with all brands.

Did you order the replacement line from your local dealer?

I do see what you mean in the pictures and if there are no other marks or signs of damage on the rest of the line I agree. The real question will be if they do and if they minded you doing the work.

I don't have a "local" dealer. But I did order it from the closest one, but I didn't buy it from him originally. I'm just hoping they'll understand that if I had to haul it to the dealer, I'd have to drive a total of 560 miles (2 trips up and back). We did have a dealer 8 miles from me, then one 20 miles away, but they were both victims of Kioti's strange requirements.