DK45 unresponsive

   / DK45 unresponsive #1  

rd_macgregor

Veteran Member
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
1,874
Location
Prince Edward Island, Canada
Tractor
Kioti DK45SC, Kubota B2650
I went out to start my DK45SC this afternoon and all seemed normal until I turned the key to engage the starter. It gave a brief sound like the starter was going to kick in as usual, but then all power went off. I have no dash lights, no cabin lights, no flashers, no fan...as far as I can tell nothing is getting power. I last used it on Wednesday evening, at which time it started and ran normally. It has been raining all day today, so I didn't get out to start it until after 3pm. Before it got dark, I did manage to verify that the (one-year-old) battery has power and that the ground is working.
I pulled the cover off the fuse block, but I didn't see anything obviously amiss; also, the fuse diagram didn't suggest a single fuse that could totally de-power everything. My only remaining suspicion is the starter switch itself...but it is too dark to fiddle with it tonight.

Any suggestions (sorry, I can't afford to trade it in on a new replacement for Xmas)?

Bob
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #2  
remove battery terminals from battery and clean them if you have not done so.
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #3  
Did you try turning the lights on ? If the battery was good I would think the lights would come on . But the switches in Kioti tractors are known to go bad .
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #4  
You checked the ground cable where it attaches to the frame ?
I had a bad ground at the frame years ago the same symptoms.
 
   / DK45 unresponsive
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Ordinarily, when I have a low battery or an iffy ground connection, I still get dim dash lights. I don't have a volt meter, but I got a spark with a short piece of wire from the Pos terminal to a bare spot on the frame. I don't think the lights work on my tractor unless the key is on, so a defect in the ignition switch could be the culprit... a job for tomorrow (I can't move round bales by hand very well, so I really need to get it going!!).
 
Last edited:
   / DK45 unresponsive #6  
Is the PTO still engaged from the last time you used it? That would normally prevent it starting. Something simple to check but it doesn't explain the power 'going out'.
 
   / DK45 unresponsive
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I'm pretty sure the PTO was shut down last time I parked it, but I'll double-check in the morning. As you say, though, a safety interlock might prevent engaging the starter, but it shouldn't shut down everything electrical!
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #8  
Just a guess, but maybe the ignition switch. When mine went bad on my old DK, it seemed like it would start, thought it was a dead battery or battery cables/post. That battery lasted 10 years for me, always turned over even in negative temps. Only time it didn't it was when the switch went.

Hope you figure it out, good luck.
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #9  
I don't know about Kioti but many tractors have a 60-80 amp main fuse in the harness.
 
   / DK45 unresponsive #10  
The 4 way flashers (& turn signals) do not go through the ignition switch so (in my mind) that eliminates the ign switch being bad. This is a very common problem, & almost always it is a loose / dirty / corroded connection. It is less common, but it does happen that the cable corrodes (under the insulation) at the clamp, or at the eyelet.

I agree with llahg, in that the battery post connectors are (by far) the most common (& easiest to fix) problem. Remove the cables from the posts, make sure the inside surface of the clamps are very clean (shiny is best!) you can take your pocket knife and scrape the inside surface. Make certain the battery posts are VERY clean (scrub them good with a wire brush. Put them back on, make sure the cable clamps actually CLAMP the posts, sometimes the ends of the clamps (where the bolts go through) come together, & no matter how much you tighten the bolt, it will not make a TIGHT connection to the post. After tightening the clamp, make sure you cannot (by hand) twist the clamp on the post.

When removing the cables, disconnect the Neg cable first & reconnect the Neg cable last. (just to reduce the chances of having your wrench short the battery)

Without a voltmeter, or a test light, it would be a pretty long explanation on how to troubleshoot the problem. Realistically, there are only 4 connections (or 2 cables) that are likely to be your problem. If you are absolutely sure the battery, and battery connections are good, & IF you are not afraid to burn a blister on one, or more of your fingers, let me know & I will go through the procedure.

Good Luck!
 

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