DK45S fuel tank removal.

[RandyT]

Has anybody had to remove the plastic fuel tank from their DK45S. What all has to come off to get the tank out. It almost looks like the dash frame assembly has to be removed to get clearance or will the tank rotate out with the air cleaner and possible the muffler removed.

tank is leaking behind what looks like the hold down strap at a seam about 6 inches from the top of the tank. Have replacement tank ordered, but waiting to get replacement before starting teardown.

 

[lilranch2001]

If it is anything like my Bobcat, CT 235, it looks like a real task.

Years ago, a fuel nozzle fell down in my 5 gal fuel can and I investigated on how to remove the tank to get it out and 10 years later that tank is never budged out of the tractor

 

[RandyT]

Got the tank out and back in. Not a bad job. Overhead hoist is a must to help control the tank while tilting and wiggling out of it home

 

[grsthegreat]

I have a 2010 dk45 cab that had some rodent chew thru tank. I ordered a new one, but while i waited i patched the hole with jbweld product for plastic. That was like 8 years ago. The new tank is still sitting on shelf. I never did try swapping it out. Good to know it wasnt that hard….it sure looks complicated.

 

[RandyT]

In my case I had thought that the tank has cracked on a seam behind the hold down strap. After removing the tank discovered that the strap had been overtightened to the point that the fuel cap side of the tank had been crushed and folded the side of the tank in about 2 inches from the top to the point that it had kinked the tank and then cracked. Also discovered that the tank was also cracked around all the fuel float level mounting studs.

And i will agree, it looks like something that will make you go bald. But with the hoist holding the weight it basically just slide out from under the dash over the top of the engine.

 

[ritcheyvs]

In my case I had thought that the tank has cracked on a seam behind the hold down strap. After removing the tank discovered that the strap had been overtightened to the point that the fuel cap side of the tank had been crushed and folded the side of the tank in about 2 inches from the top to the point that it had kinked the tank and then cracked. Also discovered that the tank was also cracked around all the fuel float level mounting studs.

And i will agree, it looks like something that will make you go bald. But with the hoist holding the weight it basically just slide out from under the dash over the top of the engine.

I think I have the same problem with my 2006 DK45S. The tank seems to leak when near full and when fuel sloshes.
(1) Did you have to buy a new tank or repair the old one?
(2) If a new replacement, how hard was it to find/get a replacement?
(3) My tank seems to have deformed such that the fill cap has moved forward compared to the hole in the hood. Did you experience this?
Finally,
(4) Did you need to remove the hood or loader?
(5) How did you attach the hoist to lift the tank?
Thanks for the info.

 

[RandyT]

I replaced my tank due to the tank being kinked at the leak area, and even with repair would be structurely unstable with high chance of recracking. Also if you remove the fuel level sending unit from the tip chances are the studs around the edge have spider cracks in the plastic which will also leak.

Replacement tank not hard to find, but need to get it ordered by serial number since there are 3 different tanks depending on serial break. I did have to remove the loader and the hood mainly just to have access to what needed to be removed and for better control. I connected the hoist to the hood support bracket which is part of the fuel tank major frame assembly which has to come out to access the tank support strap.

This is the main conponents of the fuel tank setup at least for my tractor. But need to pay attention because later models are different

 

[ritcheyvs]

I replaced my tank due to the tank being kinked at the leak area, and even with repair would be structurely unstable with high chance of recracking. Also if you remove the fuel level sending unit from the tip chances are the studs around the edge have spider cracks in the plastic which will also leak.

Replacement tank not hard to find, but need to get it ordered by serial number since there are 3 different tanks depending on serial break. I did have to remove the loader and the hood mainly just to have access to what needed to be removed and for better control. I connected the hoist to the hood support bracket which is part of the fuel tank major frame assembly which has to come out to access the tank support strap.

View attachment 2707634
This is the main conponents of the fuel tank setup at least for my tractor. But need to pay attention because later models are different

Many thanks, Sir. This is a great help. I need to take another look but mine may be different (2006 model FC44-001xx). Your description makes sense after seeing your graphic. I need to study this more.
I live quite close to Kioti USA (near Wendell NC) but I suspect I still need to order parts through a dealer. I see a wide range in costs (more than double) on dealer sites so I need to make some calls later this week.
Unfortunately, my (very close and convenient) local Kioti dealer parted ways with the brand some years ago (long story).

 

[ritcheyvs]

I replaced my tank due to the tank being kinked at the leak area, and even with repair would be structurely unstable with high chance of recracking. Also if you remove the fuel level sending unit from the tip chances are the studs around the edge have spider cracks in the plastic which will also leak.

Replacement tank not hard to find, but need to get it ordered by serial number since there are 3 different tanks depending on serial break. I did have to remove the loader and the hood mainly just to have access to what needed to be removed and for better control. I connected the hoist to the hood support bracket which is part of the fuel tank major frame assembly which has to come out to access the tank support strap.

View attachment 2707633View attachment 2707634
This is the main conponents of the fuel tank setup at least for my tractor. But need to pay attention because later models are different

RandyT, If you would be so kind ..
(1) I think you are saying that I can't just disconnect the tank hold-down strap (#2 in top figure) but must remove the entire bonnet support bracket assembly (#1 in bottom figure) with the strapped-down tank attached. Is that so?
(2) Beyond disconnecting fuel lines and the fuel gage wires, what must be disconnected for that bonnet support to come out?
(3) Should the bonnet be removed by removing the hinge pin or should it be unbolted from the bonnet support bracket?
(4) With the bonnet support free is it just a matter of lifting while "jiggling" the tank/support assembly free?
(5) I have a convenient overhead tree branch and a 4-part block and tackle. Does that sound sufficient for the job?
Thanks for your advice.
I think we own excellent machines. I consider the DK45S/DK451 superior to newer Kioti models and comparable Kubotas. In addition to being tough, heavy, and strong, owners can maintain/repair most things.

 

[RandyT]

RandyT, If you would be so kind ..
(1) I think you are saying that I can't just disconnect the tank hold-down strap (#2 in top figure) but must remove the entire bonnet support bracket assembly (#1 in bottom figure) with the strapped-down tank attached. Is that so?
(2) Beyond disconnecting fuel lines and the fuel gage wires, what must be disconnected for that bonnet support to come out?
(3) Should the bonnet be removed by removing the hinge pin or should it be unbolted from the bonnet support bracket?
(4) With the bonnet support free is it just a matter of lifting while "jiggling" the tank/support assembly free?
(5) I have a convenient overhead tree branch and a 4-part block and tackle. Does that sound sufficient for the job?
Thanks for your advice.
I think we own excellent machines. I consider the DK45S/DK451 superior to newer Kioti models and comparable Kubotas. In addition to being tough, heavy, and strong, owners can maintain/repair most things.

Yes on (1)
(2) If I remember correctly has a couple bolts on the bottom corners on both sides, as well as maybe a couple of smaller bolts toward the top.
(3) you need to remove the bonnet from the hinge support because the hinge is a permanant part of the tank support bracket.
Yes on (4) The firewall can be pain because it doesn't like to just slip out and may need to come out with the tank assembly. I had to unbolt the muffler from the exhaust manifold as well as remove th bonnet support rod bracket from the top of the engine and the air cleaner assembly to get enough room to wiggle out the tank.
(5) should be fine. The tank/bracket assembly is not overly heavy just hard to manage because you have to lift at the same time as tilting forward out from under the dash and squeeze against the engine.