Do I buy a new BX2200 or used B1700/B1750/B1550

[Anonymous Poster]

I live in Massachusetts and want to use this tractor for grading my 2acres of land, plowing in the winter, cutting grass in the summer and other misc tasks. What should I do for snow plowing. Do they make a cheap attachment for snow plowing that can remove the bucket off the loader and replace with a angled front blade. Can these models lift enought weight (sand / dirt)?

Thanks for any inputs...

JET

 

[PaulB]

Seems like the going price for a Bx2200 with mower and loader is in the 12,500 range. I paid more than that for my 1700 without a mower, but there are some differences.
1) On another thread we discuss the position control issue - not availabe on the BX, is standard on the 1700/2100/2400. For rear blade work (snow) this is a huge difference.
2) rear 3 point capacity approx 1000 pounds on the 1700, 600 on the BX. How much weight will you be carrying?
3) Similarily, front loader capacity 400 something pounds on the BX, 600 something on the 1700
4) ground clearance is much higher on the 1700 - for me this is advantage BX, as it will increase stability on slopes. Do you have lots of rocks to ride over?
5) I think but could be wrong - no tach on the BX. Hard to know what you are doing just by ear, but an aftermarket tach is always a possibility.
6) the right choice???? Depends on what you will be doing, and how much you want to spend. is the new 2410 out of your budget?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I am currently selling a used B1550

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sorry about the unfinished post , I hit the wrong button! I am selling a 1991 B1550hsdb with loader, 60" mid mower turf & ag tires in great shape and it is MUCH more tractor than the new Bx series and cheaper Please e-mail me direct if you would like more info. In general the B1550,B1750 series are extremely heavy duty machines even compared to the 1700-2400 series ie all cast iron construction much heavier etc.

 

[Roy]

PaulB's memory is correct - no tach on the BX (and yes, it is something that I will be adding to my own).

 

[jetman]

Norman, you did not leave your phone or email address. Please email me at jetman@ultranet.com

Thanks,
jetman

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Roy, Since a diesel has no coil system I would assume it has a tach drive off of somewhere. Is this drive already on the BX? From that I'd assume you'd run a cable to a cable drive tach? What are you planning on doing. I find the lack of tach a glaring error. A salesman on a brand new one I was looking at simply pulled the throttle all the way on and then backed off a little and said "that's your mowing rpm"
How precise!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hate to be an ignorant about something you guys talk about but I have to admit I have no idea what "position control" is! Is it anything more than the adjustable clamp on some tractors you can move so you always drop the implement to a certain point? Or something else. If that's the case it seems like something you could retrofit/create. Or is it more involved, like the radar based controller that Mark has that constantly resets the implement at a point in relation to the center line of the rear axle. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[MChalkley]

Del, it's sonar, not radar, and it has the added advantage of driving off moles as you work. Get your facts straight... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Position control is just the ability to set the height of your 3-point hitch with that lever beside your right leg on both of your toys. The gizmo you referred to is the position control stop. I think.

Mark "I've run out of new monikers" Chalkley

 

[Bird]

del, I'll see if I can explain position control on the 3-point, using my tractors as examples (others are similar). My B7100 did not have it. So the lever to raise or lower the 3-point hitch was centered. When you pushed it forward, the hitch lowered and continued downward until you moved the lever back to center no matter how far forward you had pushed the lever. And conversely, when you pulled back on the lever, the hitch rose and continued rising until you centered the lever again (although you could pull all the way back and turn the lever loose and when the hitch reached its maximum height, the lever would center itself). The only way you could raise or lower the hitch to a specific point or height was by watching the implement on the rear while you gently moved the lever forward or back, then move it back to center when the implement reached the level you wanted. (It did have a locking device (clamp) on a rod that you could loosen and move along the rod and re-tighten so with enough trial and error you could get it adjusted so the hitch only fell to a certain level before the lever re-centered itself, but I found that worthless).

Now the B2710 has position control. Along side the lever are numbers from 1 (all the way down) to 8 (all the way up). When you pull the lever all the way back to 8, the lever stays there and the hitch rises all the way. If you push forward to 4, for instance, the hitch lowers about halfway and stays there, and the lever always stays wherever you placed it. So, when I pull my cultivator plow in the garden, I know that I want the depth to be about 5.5, and I can either visually move the lever to that position, pull all the way back at the end of the row to pick up the plow, turn, and go back to 5.5 to plow each row the same depth, or it has a clamp type arrangment with a knob that can be loosened with your fingers and moved to any position and re-tightened (which is what I do), so I can pull all the way back to raise the plow, turn, then push all the way forward, but with the clamp stopping the lever at 5.5 to drop the plow back to the same depth.

Clear as mud?/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bird