Do severely overheated brake rotors need replaced?

[4570Man]

I bought an older kodiak dump truck that needs a little TLC. When I was driving it home one of the back brakes calipers ( this truck has disk brakes ) stuck and it severely overheated the rotor. As in it was glowing. Assuming it isn’t warped does it need replaced? The cost isn’t significant but due to being Dayton hubs on the truck replacing the rotor is a pretty big job.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

It probably will be warped. Probably cheaper to replace than having it ground true. Either way you have to remove it from the truck. When they turn blue I replace them anyway just to be SAFE. There could be microscopic cracks. Use either dye penetrant or magnaflux process to find them. A good machine shop will do that before grinding. The disc pads will get glazed with that much heat. Plan on replacement. Check the hydraulics also boiling brake fluid does strange things like ruining rubber goods.

Ron

 

[4570Man]

It’s getting brake pads on that wheel for sure and probably all the way around. I’ll also probably replace that caliper. I guess once I get that wheel freed up tomorrow I’ll check for warpage. If I end up taking it off I’m tossing it.

 

[jaxs]

At best it need's to be stone ground because of heat spots. Considering that cost,replacement s best course.

 

[Cat_Driver]

New brakes on any used vehicle are cheap insurance - liability wise.
Even if it's a close call...... replace

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I would plan on replacing that disk. If it's not warped or cracked, it will at least have hard spots on it. It will probably chatter too. Maybe there's enough disk surface left you could have it turned to clean it up, but I doubt it. Either way it has to come off.

Such is the risk you take when buying old equipment.

 

[ddbackhoe]

I would plan on replacing that disk. If it's not warped or cracked, it will at least have hard spots on it. It will probably chatter too. Maybe there's enough disk surface left you could have it turned to clean it up, but I doubt it. Either way it has to come off.

Such is the risk you take when buying old equipment.

:thumbsup: Its not just your life you are putting on the line here.

 

[oosik]

I can only relate an experience I had last year on my BMW R1200 GSA motorcycle. It has disk brakes - front & rear. For unexplained reasons the pads began dragging on the rotor on the rear wheel. Took it back in to the BMW dealer for their appraisal.

One quick look and their answer - replace the rotor, caliper & pads. I don't think the rotor ever got red hot but - WoW! - it was hotter than you wanted to touch. The rotor had turned black - as black as black can be. Even with the pads dragging lightly - the "black" was never scrubbed off the rotor surface.

Anyhow - 2500 miles later and no further problems.

Their answer - "makes no difference. With a situation such as I had - we will not risk repair. Any of the components could be structurally or mechanically damaged and a failure could lead to a serious accident".

Recognizing - a rear wheel lock up on a motorcycle can be a lot more serious than on a four wheel vehicle.

 

[crashz]

Sounds like you're on the right path 4570. Like you mentioned, it's probably started with the caliper and if not, the heat would have wrecked it anyway.

When you bleed the brakes, I'd flush all of the fluid out too. Also check the hoses, as they do break down and act as one way valves.

 

[4570Man]

I put calipers and brake pads on both sides. It required a 3.5” thin wall socket to take the hubs off and I didn’t have one so I didn’t change the rotors. They looked pretty good anyway so I left them alone.