Do you need the top link?

[john4153]

I
With the TL on, the disc will do what the tractor does. So if you have rolling terrain, the disc will follow the tractor more than the ground.

Unkooking the TL will let if follow the ground better. But it still does NOT apply down pressure. It mearly applys a more even pressure.

Thanks everyone for the input. It has been a good discussion. LD1 has hit the nail on the head as to why I considered undoing the top link. I might add that my terrain is somewhat rolling.

I noticed with a box blade that the position of the tractor affected the leveling of dips in my drive, so I switched to a root rake with gauge wheels. Second, I tend to baby my equipment. For example, I have a JD flail mover. The top link moves in a slot on the mower. I wince whenever it bangs home in the forward position. I don't care so much about the mower. I just don't want it banging on my tractor.

John

 

[downslope]

Its not a scraper blade, so angle of attack means diddly squat.

And as far as adjusting it to "level" the disk, I guess that depends on what you want it to be "level" with.

The rest of the tractor? or the ground?

With the TL on, the disc will do what the tractor does. So if you have rolling terrain, the disc will follow the tractor more than the ground.

Unkooking the TL will let if follow the ground better. But it still does NOT apply down pressure. It mearly applys a more even pressure. For example:

If you have the TL hooked up and the front tires drop into a dip/hole, this may make the back of the disk raise up in the air and have NO pressure. By un-hooking the TL or using a chain allows it to stay on the ground.

The reverse is true. If you go up a steep grade/mogule, the rear of the disc will be the only part touching as the front will raise up.

But again, it doesnt transfer any weight or add any downpressure, it mearly allows the pressure to remain a constant 100%, instead of loosing pressure because of terrain.

Obviously, you would want the disk to be level with the ground, not the tractor. As long as you have the position control down far enough the back of the disk will NOT rear up if the tractor front wheels drop into a hole. I'm with Charolais on using the toplink at all times, and I've disked 1000's of acres with 3-pt disks. In my opinion only, it makes no sense at all to run a 3-pt disk with no TL or even a chain. The better 3-pt disks have some flex designed into them, either through a hinge between front and back, ball joints, or a spring steel frame. A good operator can keep his hand on the position control when necessary and make any needed minor adjustments. Read the operator's manual for any good 3-pt disk, they would never advise running without a top link and in fact describe the importance of adjusting it properly.