Does my tractor have issues?

[wolc123]

Check your compression on each cylinder as you may be in need of a valve job. If you dont have a gage, removing each plug individually and holding your thumb over the hole while you have someone crank it will tell you if you are real low and which cylinder, if any, has bad valves. Also, as has been mentioned, fresh gas is important with some tactors. I have an old Allis Chalmers C that almost seems to double in hp when you get all the old gas burned off and some fresh in there. My 1951 Ford 8n, on the other hand, dont seem to mind what gas I use so I use it to burn off all my old or questionable stuff including that that has been mixed with 2-cycle oil for chainsaws and boat motors. Those engines also tend to be fussy with old gas. I have never had a gas tractor that came up short on power and was not caused by old gas or bad valves. I think you will probably be wasteing time and money with tune-up, plugs, or carburator work so I would look at compression (easy test) and new gas (even easier) first. Diesels on the other hand, get weak when the injectors get varnished over time, but can often be brought back to life simply by adding some diesel fuel supplement for a few tanks worth.

 

[Waverlywoods]

Gas was fresh. Carbs been rebuilt. I replaced the fuel filter when the tractor was dying on me awhile back. It's a clear plastic one that the guy said is actually made for a VW beetle ha ha. A couple people say it's alright, but I've noticed that fuel filter is only 5-20% full of gas when it's running. I was told to shut the gas off everytime I'm done with it.

I can re route the fuel line slighty which would put it behind a heat shield actually in the battery compartment. Don't know if that's kosher.

I didn't measure it but the gas line is real close to the manifold in one spot ild say aprox 2 inches maybe closer. I ground on the blades for over an hour and balanced them. I got replacements in though probably put those on tomorrow. The particular spot I was having trouble in doesn't drain well. Grass really green really thick kind of grass that seems wet and heavy till about july. I knew it would be a challenge no mower I've used likes it either.

How much does rear discharge help? Seems like a real good concept to me.

 

[Waverlywoods]

I don't have compression gauge but there's a guy at work that's restored 3 olivers, bet he does.

Thanks for everyones input. Time to get a shop manual and get with it.

 

[Ford tractor]

From tractor data it looks like the machine could be from 1958 to 1975. Big spread of vintage there. Has the machine sat for a long time? If so the rings could be gummed up and sticking. That will severely lower running compression and power. Take out the spark plugs (clean and gap them while out) and add 3 oz of 50% ATF / 50% diesel into each cylinder. After 48 hours, crank the engine over a bit with the plugs out. Then assemble and run it HARD for at least a couple hours.

The valves could also be in bad shape. You may need to set the lash. These old machine don't have modern hydraulic lifters so normal maintenance calls for checking lash and setting as needed.

I'm assuming that you have put in new plugs, cap, rotor, points, condensor, timed it and put in new oil and filters? You may also have an issue with the fuel tank vent not allowing air in. Unhook the fuel line to the carb and see how long it takes for it to drain out 1/2 gal. Refill it and with the fuel cap off see if the time is the same or close.

follow up with progress.