Does this mower look to be setup properly?

[garren]

I know I just bugged you guys about the tiller but now I have my first mowing job and had to mount the mower for the first time. It seems to work fine but I wanted you guys to look at the pic and make sure it looked adjusted properly.
I dont want to screw anything up. All of the tractors Ive borrowed in the past were already setup. The first pic is the mower all the way down and second pic is all the way up.

Is there any reason to adjust the rear wheel?
Do I mow with lower arms in float mode? and the mower skids draggin'?

 

[wushaw]

Keep the leading edge of the mower off the ground an inch or so to keep from tearing up the ground. Adjust the tail wheel so the rear of the mower is off the ground but higher than the leading edge a little.

 

[thcri]

Looks ok to me as long as your not digging in the front.


murph

 

[RoyJackson]

You don't want the side skirts digging in.

I suggest you lengthen the toplink until the tail wheel touches the ground. If your Kubota has position control, or a rockshaft adjustable stop, set it when the front of the cutter is about an inch lower then the rear (just eyeball this)

 

[garren]

You guys are quick! Thanks again for the help. My side skirts were digging in when I tested the mower on my pasture so I will set the position control stop so that the the front of the mower stays an inch off of the ground.

 

[George2615]

Usually most rotary mowers I've seen have a swivel bracket for a top link connector. Mine does (attached pic). This allows for movement of the top link while driving on varying terrain. Your setup is a solid 3PT connection with no give to it. When the tractor wheels and the rotary mower wheel are not on the same level ground, the top link needs to be able to move, otherwise it or something else will bend or break.

 

[garren]

Usually most rotary mowers I've seen have a swivel bracket for a top link connector. Mine does (attached pic). This allows for movement of the top link while driving on varying terrain. Your setup is a solid 3PT connection with no give to it. When the tractor wheels and the rotary mower wheel are not on the same level ground, the top link needs to be able to move, otherwise it or something else will bend or break.

Could that be why mine has that piece of flat steel and chain that runs on an angle from the top link back to the wheel? I noticed when I was mowing that as I travel over uneven ground the chain tightens or goes slack. Flat steel has some flex also.

 

[diyDave]

Garren's mower looks OK. It has a swivel, but its the chain at the back of the front to back brace. When the tail wheel hits something, the chain allows the whole machine to pivot up on the lower pins, thus allowing constant traction, and less of a chance of high centering the rig.

 

[George2615]

You are correct. Mine has solid bars going from the 3 PT. bracket to the back of the deck hence the need for my swivel bracket. I looked too quick at your pic and thought I saw a solid bar and never saw the chain before I replied. Of course by the time I replied 3 others beat me to it.

 

[thingy]

Well,seems a bit high don't it,,,the rear wheel has got to be on ground,,course you knowed that I bet,,,anyways,,think about using a length of chain instead of top link,,allows mower to float much better,,the only reason you need top link is to pick it up,,think about that,,they sell pull behind hogs,[no top link,won't raise],,so think about it after you use it a little,,level is alright,,,,thingy