Don't do it.

   / Don't do it. #71  
… And then , with no side chains to keep it on the center of your tire, you then somehow finagle your tractor around so that a fence post is sticking up in front of your rear tire, without running it over or scratching/denting your platform or platform steps, and then somehow connect the chain to the post, with a chain somehow still centered on your tire?🤔
Even if that somehow worked, which I can’t imagine unless someone explains it better, my platform and rear fenders are pretty close to the rear tires.
I could totally see the post coming out would wedge, and into my platform and fender where's they meet, and cause damage.

I don’t see this suggested method working at all with modern compact tractors, or maybe I’m missing something?
kind of my objections also, like i said an old tire rim without the tire a 2X10 and the chain over the rim attached to the draw bar, + a coat laid over the leingth of the chain is my go to, and allows for a lot of chain to be placed between the tractor and the action.
 
   / Don't do it. #72  
I don't think that was the point .... :)
Ohhh she was flirting with me! Now you tell me! About ten years too late!

Related to "Don't Do It."

Don't rush to pick up free furniture that the person requesting isn't sure about...Thanks sis, I sure could have used that time to do anything else.
 
   / Don't do it. #73  
Surprised this hasn't been mentioned: a post here long ago referenced a kid who died that way, he didn't get the clutch pushed in soon enough before the tractor came back over on him.

And the alternative described by an experienced farmer - chain the post to the front side of a rear tire, back up. No risk of flipping the tractor that way.
(y)
Impressed at the amount of ingenuity wasted in subsequent posts magnifying the difficulty or posing the impossibility of this ploy.
 
   / Don't do it. #74  
kind of my objections also, like i said an old tire rim without the tire a 2X10 and the chain over the rim attached to the draw bar, + a coat laid over the leingth of the chain is my go to, and allows for a lot of chain to be placed between the tractor and the action.
I've seen this twice in the thread and still can't figure out what you do with the 2 x 10. Sorry I'm dense, can somebody tell me?
 
   / Don't do it. #75  
Never, never loan your chainsaw to anyone, not even a relative. If they want to borrow it, they borrow you as well. If they don't have one, they have not the required knowledge to use it and especially fuel and oil it. You don't have a clue how many straight gassed saws or saws that a 'borrower' put dirty motor oil in that failed. First thing we have to do (I work part time at my Kubota dealer who also sells and services Echo power equipment). First thing is drain whatever gas is in the tank and check to see is one, it's phase separated corn squeezed gas and two if it's straight gassed and 3, what is in the oil tank, if anything. All of the above equals NO WARRANTY and the owner charges 120 bucks an hour for non warranty repairs, plus parts.
 
   / Don't do it. #76  
I've seen this twice in the thread and still can't figure out what you do with the 2 x 10. Sorry I'm dense, can somebody tell me?
lay it on the ground under the rim to keep the rim from sinking into the ground.

simple lay a section of 2X10 on the ground up against the post, pointed the direction of the pull, attach the chain low on the post, set the rim under the chain and on top of the 2X10. with the chain in the u shaped section of the rim push the rim against the post, lay a jacket or heavy blanket over the chain, back the tractor up to a point 10' or more from the post. attach the chain to the draw bar on the tractor and use the tractor to pull the chain away from the post. the rim acts as a pully causing the chain to pull up at the post while you pull it away from the post. the coat dampens the chain incase it lets go unexpectedly
 
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