Draft control tie rod broken - How to replace and exactly what does it do?

[mljenkins]

The tie rod on my draft control linkage broke on my New Holland Workmaster 55. I went to use my cutter and raised it but it would not lower. Having accidentally raised the draft control lever before and finally figuring out why I couldn't get my box blade to lower years ago, I pretty much figured my problem was either the draft control or the 3-point reaction speed.

When I went to investigate I found a rod that was broken. I looked up the part and they call it a tie rod. It looks like it might be an easy fix, but I am a little hesitant because of the way the plungers work on the draft control linkage, I'm not sure how easy it actually will be. Plus I may have to partially remove the cutter (currently in a maximum up position) to get the weight off the top link.

I know what draft control works and what it is for. The question I have, what is part does this tie rod play in the draft control system? Does it just keep the draft control plunger from coming out too far, or does it play a part in sensing the load?

I am also really curious what would have made this rod break. I always lower my cutter when I am done with the tractor when I park it. So the last time I used it, the 3 point lowered fine. My guess is maybe it was broken during the last time I used the tractor for cutting, but when I raised it up today I raised it a little further up and it was just luck the draft control sensor kicked in and is stopping it from lowering. On a side note, yes the draft lever is all the way in float. I tried raising and lowering the draft lever but that didn't help to temporarily resolve my issue until I get the tie rod fixed.

Also, any hints on how to make the 3-point lower with the draft system temporarily broken would be appreciated.

I will attach a picture of the broken rod and also of the parts diagram of what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Matt

 

[mljenkins]

I should mention also in the first picture that is a socket on that bolt. I was going to start taking things apart and then realized I had better just get the new part first instead of tearing into things today. That crank plate the socket is on the bolt for is where the tie rod attached.

 

[mljenkins]

Quick update. I managed to get the tie rod off yesterday. I had to first remove the cutter because my primarily concern was if the 3-point lowered, despite where I had the position lever and setting the control speed all the way to slow, it would pinch some part of my body and send me to the hospital. I used a farm/bumper jack to get the cutter off the arms. Once off, I went to work on the tie rod.

The tie rod rotates around the cam further forward on the housing. The end of the tie rod was welded/rusted solid around the cam pin where it should have been rotating. Because it couldn't move, once the draft control moved for some reason on the back, when it went to push the tie rod back it just broke it in half. I would have never thought in a hundred years to oil that connection, but that's something I will be doing from this point forward.

I ordered a new tie rod and hopefully it will be here next week. I still think the cam on the housing is what controls the position in relation to where the draft control lever is set. However, messing around with it by hand I couldn't get the 3-point to react. So I'm still not 100% sure of how the entire system works. Nonetheless, my lift arms lowered so that was a big relief. I'll wait for the tie rod before I get into any more cutting because I don't feel like fixing something in the field.

 

[Btown]

I would think that it would take a lot of force for it to work, a lot more than one could apply by hand. Other wise it would activate the draft control and your implement would never be in the ground.