After running the tractor for an hour or so the brakes start dragging and get tighter if I continue until the tractor pulls hard to overcome it. I have only about an inch of brake pedal travel and I'm thinking that may be the problem. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions to fix it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Dragging Brakes on JD 210C
- Thread starter jim42c
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Tx Jim
New Member
I suggest you get & consult a 210C tech manual.
Sounds as if brake valve is leaking internally. On older JD utility tractors with similar brake valve there was a procedure in tech manual for adjusting brake pedal height. When brakes drag try loosening bleeders on the top of each final drive housing. Earlier 210C models up to serial # -747741 appears to have brake lining release springs that could have weakened with age. I have no idea what the purpose is of the bolts(keys 11A or 11B)unless they're designed to lessen bake disk drag..
Sounds as if brake valve is leaking internally. On older JD utility tractors with similar brake valve there was a procedure in tech manual for adjusting brake pedal height. When brakes drag try loosening bleeders on the top of each final drive housing. Earlier 210C models up to serial # -747741 appears to have brake lining release springs that could have weakened with age. I have no idea what the purpose is of the bolts(keys 11A or 11B)unless they're designed to lessen bake disk drag..
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I have a friend that has promised to loan me his 210c tech manual and I'll pick it up today. I was under it yesterday looking for anything that looked like it had something to do with adjusting the brakes and saw the 11a, 11b bolts but had no idea what they were for so I didn't fool with it. I did not see the #6 screws on top because it is hard to see from underneath. I assume that #6 is the bleeder screws you're referring to. I saw the rod from the rear wheel lock pedal and it seems to be adjustable but I don't think that has anything to do with my brake dragging because it works OK when I need it. I didn't fool with that either. Was the illustration you sent from the tech manual or the parts manual? Is a repair kit available for the brake valve? I've rebuilt the lift cylinders for the bucket so I think I could handle rebuilding the brake valve. I appreciate your response and the valuable information you have given me. I'll let you know what I find in the tech manual. Again thanks.
Tx Jim
New Member
My knowledge of JD industrial tractors is very limited although ind tractors & ag tractors have a lot in common. I think fitting(key 6 & key 2) are identical. I didn't locate bleeder on ind tractor I referred to & I was guessing the purpose of key 11A or 11B.
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Got the tech manual this morning and read about bleeding and adjusting the brakes. The manual said you can bleed the brakes without a bleeder valve. It said to raise the front of the tractor with the bucket as high as it will go, then turn the steering wheel all the way right or left and pump the brakes 12 times while holding the steering wheel all the way over for 30 seconds. Repeat as necessary. This seemed to be in the instance that you had excessive brake pedal travel. My pedals only went down about an inch, but I tried the procedure anyway. Didn't get any more pedal travel so I went to the section about adjusting the brakes. The 2 screws shown on the first illustration of the axle housing you sent me are for adjusting the brakes. They showed using a special tool for that but I found that a box end wrench and the proper size allen wrench did the job as well. The procedure was to loosen the nut and screw the screw in until it bottomed out and then back off 120 degrees. I tried that and test drove my tractor and I still had dragging brakes. Did the procedure again but backed the screws out 2 full turns. Test drove it again and noticed I had about 2+ inches of pedal travel now. Ran the tractor for about 3 hours with NO DRAGGING BRAKES. Oh Happy Day!! I've ordered a Tech manual for myself (not cheap) and looking for a repair manual that they referred to often, and I expect it will be expensive too, but to eliminate the frustration and down time it will be worth it. I can't say enough about how much I appreciate your help and guidance. Thank you. You the Man!!
Tx Jim
New Member
Congratulations & you're welcome. I was just guessing the adjusting screws were there for a reason.
And after backing out the screws 2 full turns instead of 120 degrees I have good stopping power, 2 inches pedal travel instead of one inch and Parking brakes work good too.
Being from Coyote Flats I suppose ya'll have had them for years. They were reintroduced in Georgia about 30 years ago and have multiplied rapidly. Now we see very few rabbits and gray foxes, no quail or red foxes and they kill calves. We have have an abundance of turkeys and deer but they do kill a lot of fawns. Now we hunt deer, coyotes and feral hogs (which were brought back about 20 years ago) since we have an abundance of both. I've had to plow and replant some of my hay fields because of the damage the hogs do with their rooting deep holes and keep a sharp eye out when a cow is calving because of the coyotes. Both are wise and hard to kill.
Thanks again.
Being from Coyote Flats I suppose ya'll have had them for years. They were reintroduced in Georgia about 30 years ago and have multiplied rapidly. Now we see very few rabbits and gray foxes, no quail or red foxes and they kill calves. We have have an abundance of turkeys and deer but they do kill a lot of fawns. Now we hunt deer, coyotes and feral hogs (which were brought back about 20 years ago) since we have an abundance of both. I've had to plow and replant some of my hay fields because of the damage the hogs do with their rooting deep holes and keep a sharp eye out when a cow is calving because of the coyotes. Both are wise and hard to kill.
Thanks again.
