Draining engine block during coolant flush

Zipperhead0 · May 7, 2012

I have a TC29DA and recently I changed out the anti-freeze. Draining the radiator was easy enough but then the directions stated that you needed to drain the engine block out of a drain plug on the right side of the engine. I could see the plug but I could not figure how to get my fat hands or a tool in there to loosen the plug. It is a very tight area that maybe only a Japanese tool or hand can fit into. Does anybody have a secret to getting to this plug?

V1Rotate · May 7, 2012

Had the same problem with my TC29. And to honest, all I did was drain the radiator, fill with water, drain again, then refill with antifreeze and water. That might not be the absolute best way, but I didn't want to mess with that block drain.

namesray · May 7, 2012

i have cycled the antifreeze coolant in kubota engines without "draining" the engine block. drain the raidator and fill with water. then run the engine until normal operating temp. (take it for a short ride and work it a bit. 15 mins. about.) then shut off, let cool down and drain the radiator. (careful not to get burned.) refill with water. doing this a few times will cycle out all the old coolant and you will know as when you drain it the stuff comming out will not have much color to it and will be mostly water. you could then add a radiator flush to it and repeat the cycle until all has been cycled through and then start cycling the flush out and then start adding your new fresh coolant. all through the radiator. 3 things to keep in mind. 1. let the engine cool before draining. don't get burned. 2. make sure the engine is cool enough before adding the water or coolant. don't add such cold to a real hot engine/radiator or it could crack. 3. don't let the coolant (new or old) mix with the flushing agent. sludge could occur. best to do on a cool type day so the engine cools off quicker for you each time. plan on a whole morning. this is by far not the quickest way, but works. i have been told that if you try draining the block directly and don't know what you are doing, you can air lock the engine. not an expert, but what i have been told. this is mostly my procedure and i was just throwing this out there.

Looking4new · May 7, 2012

Simple way....Gotta drain both rad and block? Yank the lower rad hose off and open the rad cap.

roofgunner · May 8, 2012

I just did the same thing with my TL80. It's practically impossible to get to the drain cock on the radiator. The NH shop said to pull the lower rad hose off. It all worked.

Ohio Paul · May 9, 2012

All you have to do is remove one of the bolts on the fuel filter bracket that mounts above the drain. I think it is the right one that is easiest to get to. Then loosen the other bolt and swing the fuel filter out of the way and you have easy access. A universal joint on your socket extension really helps if you have one.

MiserableOldFart · May 9, 2012

This might be a little off base, but it might help some people with this problem. My TC26DA is fairly easy to drain but I still hate to do it every year, which is recommended. There is a new product out (at least new to me) a permanent antifreeze that contains no water. It's expensive, but designed to last the life of the engine. Read about it in "Hobby Farms" magazine.. It's called "EVANS NPG+" and the magazine recommends it for tractors, but I would have to be convinced it has the anti-cavitation properties that diesel engines need before I used it..

If this stuff is as good as it claims, at least you'd only have to get to that drain plug once..

A Google search came up with this link, just one place that sells the stuff..
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/evans-coolant/evans-npg-waterless-coolant/

The magazine article mentions that tractors that sit around a lot can have problems of separation of the water from the anti-corrosion stuff and then the water can cause corrosion in the system. Don't know how accurate any of this is, but it does make sense that something with no water would be superior..

Evans' site has this test result for cavitation. I can probably read it but not very quickly, and not tonight, lol.

http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/Uploads/John-Deere-Cavitation-Results2.pdf