ThatServerGuy
Member
Ok what is everyone doing for a drawbar? I have two different size trailer balls I use (2" and 2 5/16") and would love to use my included drawbar to hook up both sizes. Any suggestions?
Drawbar help
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Wagtail
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Isn't there an 'over/under' trailer-ball configuration, one where you just have to flip the drawbar over to use the one you need?
OP
ThatServerGuy
Member
I though he same thing except the bolt from one will get in the way of the other if flipped over... Unless I'm missing something.
boggen
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pulling with tractor... you have the "swinging draw bar" that is attached just below the PTO on back of tractor. and then the "draw bar" that attaches to lower lift arms. recommended way of pulling trailers with tractor. other wise you may be kissing the trailer. as it raises the 3pt hitch up.
you can also get "stay straps" for 3pt hitch to hold the 3pt hitch in a given spot. tractorsupply, grainger, harbor freight, and other farm outlets generally sell the stay straps. they tend to hook up some place near the "top link" and then connect down onto the lower lift arms. possibly directly at were the 3pt hitch implement is connected.
they also sell a 3pt hitch..."hitch" connects to top link and lower lift arms of 3pt hitch like any other 3pt hitch item. from there you can get a 2 way or 3way ball. pull a pin turn the 3way around and insert pin again. would suggest stay straps for this.
some folks have just welded on a square tubing on back of a rear blade to box blade. to other. to act as a receiving hitch. so they can slip in a 2 way or 3way ball. again safety reasons suggest stay straps.
if you have seen "slip on forks" for a FEL (Front end loader) were each fork is just a long metal piece with a bar on top and bottom that slips over the edge of the bucket and nothing else. but a couple butterfly bolts. you tighten. some folks have done same like thing but for a "hitch ball"
you might look at some "ratchet tooth bars" or bolt on tooth bars for FEL. might be something there for you as well and taking like idea for a "ball hitch"
some have simply taken the end of one trailer and whacked it off. and welded on the larger 2 5/16" ball end on the trailer. assumption 2 5/16" is going to be stronger. down grading from 2 5/16 to 2" more likely very bad idea. but upgrading size most likely ok. as long as welder knows there stuff. have seen new ends for trailers at menards, lowes, etc... i think most of the ones i remember seeing allowed for bolt on and guessing more likely for boat trailers but.. *shrugs*
=================
as much as i do not want to go "safety police" i hate hooking up to 3pt hitch. with out any sort of way to keep 3pt hitch from lifting up. such as stay straps. i have hooked up to a couple trailers enough times. just moving them over a few feet to mow with tractor. and one time i do remember rather clearly rear wheels coming off ground over a simply little bump that caused things to shift weight on me. i have had very rear of the trailers grind the ground due to 3pt hitch lifted up. ((1 light lends busted and needed replace, another time wire torn from light)).
ya i like being able to backup to trailer with 3pt hitch and let it down. and then bring up 3pt hitch up. and lift trailer all the way up "including jack" on trailer without ever needing to mess with jack on trailer. but again.. *arghs* 3pt hitch can get you in some big trouble if you go for way to lazy. have had issue trailer came off ball on vehicle. and leaving dents in back of vehicle (tail gate, bumper, exhaust, rear lights) dented / damaged due to check chains holding trailer. i really don't want trailer taking my head off on tractor. so any more it is the old hard work and taking time to getter done right.
you can also get "stay straps" for 3pt hitch to hold the 3pt hitch in a given spot. tractorsupply, grainger, harbor freight, and other farm outlets generally sell the stay straps. they tend to hook up some place near the "top link" and then connect down onto the lower lift arms. possibly directly at were the 3pt hitch implement is connected.
they also sell a 3pt hitch..."hitch" connects to top link and lower lift arms of 3pt hitch like any other 3pt hitch item. from there you can get a 2 way or 3way ball. pull a pin turn the 3way around and insert pin again. would suggest stay straps for this.
some folks have just welded on a square tubing on back of a rear blade to box blade. to other. to act as a receiving hitch. so they can slip in a 2 way or 3way ball. again safety reasons suggest stay straps.
if you have seen "slip on forks" for a FEL (Front end loader) were each fork is just a long metal piece with a bar on top and bottom that slips over the edge of the bucket and nothing else. but a couple butterfly bolts. you tighten. some folks have done same like thing but for a "hitch ball"
you might look at some "ratchet tooth bars" or bolt on tooth bars for FEL. might be something there for you as well and taking like idea for a "ball hitch"
some have simply taken the end of one trailer and whacked it off. and welded on the larger 2 5/16" ball end on the trailer. assumption 2 5/16" is going to be stronger. down grading from 2 5/16 to 2" more likely very bad idea. but upgrading size most likely ok. as long as welder knows there stuff. have seen new ends for trailers at menards, lowes, etc... i think most of the ones i remember seeing allowed for bolt on and guessing more likely for boat trailers but.. *shrugs*
=================
as much as i do not want to go "safety police" i hate hooking up to 3pt hitch. with out any sort of way to keep 3pt hitch from lifting up. such as stay straps. i have hooked up to a couple trailers enough times. just moving them over a few feet to mow with tractor. and one time i do remember rather clearly rear wheels coming off ground over a simply little bump that caused things to shift weight on me. i have had very rear of the trailers grind the ground due to 3pt hitch lifted up. ((1 light lends busted and needed replace, another time wire torn from light)).
ya i like being able to backup to trailer with 3pt hitch and let it down. and then bring up 3pt hitch up. and lift trailer all the way up "including jack" on trailer without ever needing to mess with jack on trailer. but again.. *arghs* 3pt hitch can get you in some big trouble if you go for way to lazy. have had issue trailer came off ball on vehicle. and leaving dents in back of vehicle (tail gate, bumper, exhaust, rear lights) dented / damaged due to check chains holding trailer. i really don't want trailer taking my head off on tractor. so any more it is the old hard work and taking time to getter done right.
Wagtail
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
- Messages
- 12,608
- Location
- St Helens, Tasmania, Australia
- Tractor
- JD 4105 / JD Z355E (48" deck)
If the bolt is the same size for both balls and long enough then you'd just screw the balls onto either end of a double ended bolt. Don't forget to add length to the bolt to accommodate the washer & split-ring (lock) washer + the thickness of your bar. [PS: I'm not trying to tell you 'how to suck eggs', just spelling it out.
]MMagis
Veteran Member
Just buying an interchangeable ball hitch set would be a whole lot easier and cheaper.
gladehound
Veteran Member
I second the interchangeable ball set.
Inexpensive and supper easy to change balls. You just push down on a grooved button on the top of the ball with a screw driver, turn a quarter turn, the button pops up and releases the ball from the shank. Take it off. Put the other size ball on the shank. Push the button down, turn it and you're done. I've been using one for years - works great. The only down side is I think they only have an ~8000 pound tow rating. But that is for highway speeds. On a tractor, you can probably go much higher without issue due to lower dynamic forces. Truth be told I've towed 11,000 pounds with mine with no issues. I do make sure to attach the safety chains.
Inexpensive and supper easy to change balls. You just push down on a grooved button on the top of the ball with a screw driver, turn a quarter turn, the button pops up and releases the ball from the shank. Take it off. Put the other size ball on the shank. Push the button down, turn it and you're done. I've been using one for years - works great. The only down side is I think they only have an ~8000 pound tow rating. But that is for highway speeds. On a tractor, you can probably go much higher without issue due to lower dynamic forces. Truth be told I've towed 11,000 pounds with mine with no issues. I do make sure to attach the safety chains.
I guess moving 1 trailer that would be fine. When i am moving trailers it's typically 5 or 6 of them in my back lot so the 3 point ball is ideal as the 3 point lifts them and i don't have to mess with the jacks. I just welded it up out of scrap and slide my hitch into the receiver.......
gladehound
Veteran Member
Very good point. OP said he has 2 trailers with two different ball sizes. My draw bar is always on the tractor regardless of it there is a rear implement on. If there is not, I either already have the right ball size on or it's a 5 second job to swap balls. I typically am moving 1 trailer on any given occasion. It would take me more time to hook up a 3pt draw bar carrier than do it the way I do it now for one trailer.
100% agree that if you are moving multiple trailers back to back the 3pt carrier is the way to go. If I ever make a weight box for the back, I'll probably attach a draw bar receiver to that for convenience.
I should probably bolt one to the back of each of my implements so that I don't have to remove them.
But for any serious towing I always use the draw bar. Mine doesn't sway and I like that solid connection.