Drip Irrigation Installation Question SDR 21 Gasket joint

[rpdranc]

While not officially tractor related , am using tractor spinning jenny to lay out drip tube!
I have never used Gasket Joint. I have 2" PVC Pipe,SDR Gasket joint 20' sections.
1)so I only use pipe joint lubricant? DO i apply it just to line on male end or also inside gasket end?
2)When I cut section to fit do I cut off beveled,filed end and use a cemented coupler to reattach it or do i file the end down and use no cement on anything except end cap at end of run?
3)Rocks or bricks necessary at elbows and end to keep pipe from separating? Its only 15PSI running through it for drip irrigation so don't see that being a problem but read i should do that I believe?
4) As I will be blowing out water end of season does it matter how deep I bury the pipe? I just don't want to see it, it's a vineyard in the backyard- few hundred feet of buried pipe, just as soon bury it 1-2 ft?
5) The King Drain pictured is supposed to go at lowest point, not sure where to put that, as end of PVC header row is low on one run, but lowest point is near spigot? Should I add another at each low point on the 3 runs? Do I
just use tape on thread and hand tighten that blue drain piece?
Thanks!!

 

[ishiboo]

While not officially tractor related , am using tractor spinning jenny to lay out drip tube!
I have never used Gasket Joint. I have 2" PVC Pipe,SDR Gasket joint 20' sections.
1)so I only use pipe joint lubricant? DO i apply it just to line on male end or also inside gasket end?

Both to be safe. Male end + gasket itself.

2)When I cut section to fit do I cut off beveled,filed end and use a cemented coupler to reattach it or do i file the end down and use no cement on anything except end cap at end of run?

Cement is only used on non-gasketed connections.

3)Rocks or bricks necessary at elbows and end to keep pipe from separating? Its only 15PSI running through it for drip irrigation so don't see that being a problem but read i should do that I believe?

I would. Water hammer, temperature changes, etc. is all going to want to move the whole pipe. I'd want to see it constrained so it doesn't open up anywhere.

4) As I will be blowing out water end of season does it matter how deep I bury the pipe? I just don't want to see it, it's a vineyard in the backyard- few hundred feet of buried pipe, just as soon bury it 1-2 ft?

That's fine.

5) The King Drain pictured is supposed to go at lowest point, not sure where to put that, as end of PVC header row is low on one run, but lowest point is near spigot? Should I add another at each low point on the 3 runs? Do I
just use tape on thread and hand tighten that blue drain piece?

The lowest point can be near the spigot, that's fine... it would "drain back" towards the spigot and empty there. Realize that you only need it IF you want automatic freeze protection and IF you angle all the pipes so they drain back towards the drain valve.

Since you'll be blowing it out/draining, you technically don't need the valve at all... but it's good insurance you never forget or a freeze doesn't surprise you.

 

[rpdranc]

I sure do appreciate you taking the time to respond ishiboo!! so on 2) should I use a file to round off end going into gasket like it looked before I cut it where i need to shorten 20 ft sections or would you cut off end and use a coupler to put that end piece back on to fit into gasket?

Thanks again for answering EVERY one of my questions!!

 

[MossRoad]

Welcome to TBN!

 

[EddieWalker]

I just lube the female side around the gasket. Most of the time the pipe is marked on the male side so you know when you have pushed it in far enough. I use a block of wood over the end of the pipe and a pry bar to push the pipe together. Be sure to not twist or bind the gasket. If in doubt, pull it apart and do it again with more lube.

The reason for gasketed pipe is to allow movement of the pipe in the ground. When the soil is wet and it freezes, it expands just like an ice cube in a tray. This movement pulls the pipes apart. Then as it thaws, it contracts and pushes the pipes together. On long runs, this is what saves pipes from breaking. But with that movement, you have to be sure that the pipe does not pull all the way out. You have to block the end of the run with concrete. I use sacks of ready mix and just put them in the hole between where the pipe ends and where the ditch ends.

Eddie