I have just changed the Transmission Oil and filter on my 2135 Ride on. The hydrostatic transmission worked fine prior to the change, now I have no drive available both forward and reverse. I removed the oil filter from the trans to see if it was fill of oil which it appears to be. Have pushed it along for a while in drive, motor running to see if it would engage which it dosen't. I suspect an air blockage and perhaps it is unable to purge the new oil through the pump and transmission. I also suspect it's a problem which may be commen? Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks
Oil & Fuel Drive on Hydro Static Transmission 2135 after oil change
- Thread starter woody02
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If you haven't, ck the owner's manual instruction detail for changing xmission oil: http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/GetFile.do?filename=770-0897c.pdf
Also, you may still have air in the system - Pull the transmission release lever fully out (on the back of the unit). Start engine. Set to mid-throttle. Fully depress forward pedal for 5 seconds, then same for reverse pedal. Repeat 5 times. Re-engage xmission release and ck function. If still no good, prolly time to call the shop.
Note: make sure all plugs, filters, etc. are installed/secured before starting engine. Manual is quite specific about that.
Also, you may still have air in the system - Pull the transmission release lever fully out (on the back of the unit). Start engine. Set to mid-throttle. Fully depress forward pedal for 5 seconds, then same for reverse pedal. Repeat 5 times. Re-engage xmission release and ck function. If still no good, prolly time to call the shop.
Note: make sure all plugs, filters, etc. are installed/secured before starting engine. Manual is quite specific about that.
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Thanks for the reply. Have tried all of what you suggested and still no drive. It's bound to be air in the system although the filter I used is an after market one not the cub cadet replacement. This shouldn't matter though??
Someone is bound to have experienced the same problem before? I'm a mechanic so everthing should be ok with amounts to a basic oil change procedure. Thanks for the link. Does anyone have a link to the transmission repair/ manual only - hydrostatic drive? - Dave
Someone is bound to have experienced the same problem before? I'm a mechanic so everthing should be ok with amounts to a basic oil change procedure. Thanks for the link. Does anyone have a link to the transmission repair/ manual only - hydrostatic drive? - Dave
I would try using a cub filter they seem to be pretty sensitive for some reason
JTKub
Veteran Member
+1 to what nolan says. This is probably the 6th time I've heard of this exact same issue over the years and a genuine Cub trans filter or high quality x-ref'd hydraulic filter fixed the issue. I use the x-ref'd Napa or Carquest (Wix) hydraulic filter for the trans on my 2544, but it's the same price (if not more) than a Cub filter, so there's no value in doing so.
Joel
Joel
Undercover
Silver Member
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- Dec 17, 2007
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I would for sure use the cub filter.
One think i do is i have the tractor up on floor jacks and after i'm done i run it in forward and rev a few time and have never had a problem with air.
One think i do is i have the tractor up on floor jacks and after i'm done i run it in forward and rev a few time and have never had a problem with air.
Good advice - have tried a Cub filter and all is well again. It would appear the after market filter has a check value in the end designed for a pressure oil supply - car motor
The cub filter is filled only by gravity feed so I guessing not enough oil could flow through the filter. After market one cost $11 compared to the Cub replacement at $30. If their parts were a bit more reasonable then I would have used the Cub filter in the first instance. It's been a good learning exercise though - thanks to all that offered their help
The cub filter is filled only by gravity feed so I guessing not enough oil could flow through the filter. After market one cost $11 compared to the Cub replacement at $30. If their parts were a bit more reasonable then I would have used the Cub filter in the first instance. It's been a good learning exercise though - thanks to all that offered their help
VinceSMTA
Silver Member
Woody, Did you get the 923-3014 Filter? I just looked at a receipt from October when I changed the oil in my 2542 and the price was $12.99...$30 seems incredibly high.
Undercover
Silver Member
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12.99 is what i paid also the drive fluid was 10.77 a qt (737-3120)
JTKub
Veteran Member
That's not really true woody. Oil is pumped through the filter anytime the engine is running. How 'hard' I dunno. I'm not sure if it's a separate pump on the Hydro-Gear drive for this purpose, or if it's plumbed into the return line. From the filter, oil is dumped directly to to the sump (diff housing). Why exactly some a/m filters don't work I dunno. I do know that any true hydraulic spin-on filter I've seen does NOT have an anti drain-back valve and most don't have spring loaded bypasses either. So like you say, it's gotta be related to that. ~$13 is typical for a dealer filter, so you got clobbered on that. I'm not against Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus, but I do refuse to pay $11/qt for a not so special oil. I recommend Shell Rotella 5w40 or 15w40 for this purpose, but many other HD engine oils have proven to work perfectly in this application as well.
Joel
