ChuckT
Gold Member
This month we finally hooked-up the Finishing Deck that we bought to use with our YM 1510D.
It’s a BEFCO Cyclone & works fine, however hooking it up was another matter.
The driveshaft (which is apparently a WALTERSCHEID unit by the instruction booklet) has a "Push-Pull Lock" Quick Release coupling on it rather than the "QD Pin-Lock" coupling that I am familiar with. After much sweat, consternation & bad language (describing the generic heritage of an inanimate object always helps, of course) I decided that because:
1) The coupling would go on with no slop & no binding - the splines were correct
2) It would stop without "latching" into place
3) The coupling spline length was correct, they looked correct & measured correct,
4) The three balls in the coupling mechanism were free to move,
The spring behind the balls in the QR must be very stiff.
I just wasn't putting enough beef behind making the driveshaft connection. Even gingerly backing the tractor against the deck wasn't making it latch. The other end of the shaft at the (deck) gearbox was equally stiff so I was unable to disconnect the shaft there either.
I finally got the deck hitched to the tractor by taking the Over-Running Clutch off the tractor, pushing it (the OR Clutch) onto the drive shaft and then re-connecting the OR Clutch to the tractor before hooking up the three-point.
So my dilemma is this - given that the Finishing deck is belt-driven, it probably doesn't "need" an OR Clutch as much as the brush deck. We need the brush deck to finish clearing but won't use it often enough leave it attached to the tractor (and perhaps we'll sell it, anyway) what can I do to the QR on the finish deck to make it manageable?
Is there a way to work on the spring in the QR mechanism to make it "lighter"? Or is it more practical to replace the tractor U-Joint end of the drive shaft with one that has a Pin-Lock QR?
TIA
cvt
It’s a BEFCO Cyclone & works fine, however hooking it up was another matter.
The driveshaft (which is apparently a WALTERSCHEID unit by the instruction booklet) has a "Push-Pull Lock" Quick Release coupling on it rather than the "QD Pin-Lock" coupling that I am familiar with. After much sweat, consternation & bad language (describing the generic heritage of an inanimate object always helps, of course) I decided that because:
1) The coupling would go on with no slop & no binding - the splines were correct
2) It would stop without "latching" into place
3) The coupling spline length was correct, they looked correct & measured correct,
4) The three balls in the coupling mechanism were free to move,
The spring behind the balls in the QR must be very stiff.
I just wasn't putting enough beef behind making the driveshaft connection. Even gingerly backing the tractor against the deck wasn't making it latch. The other end of the shaft at the (deck) gearbox was equally stiff so I was unable to disconnect the shaft there either.
I finally got the deck hitched to the tractor by taking the Over-Running Clutch off the tractor, pushing it (the OR Clutch) onto the drive shaft and then re-connecting the OR Clutch to the tractor before hooking up the three-point.
So my dilemma is this - given that the Finishing deck is belt-driven, it probably doesn't "need" an OR Clutch as much as the brush deck. We need the brush deck to finish clearing but won't use it often enough leave it attached to the tractor (and perhaps we'll sell it, anyway) what can I do to the QR on the finish deck to make it manageable?
Is there a way to work on the spring in the QR mechanism to make it "lighter"? Or is it more practical to replace the tractor U-Joint end of the drive shaft with one that has a Pin-Lock QR?
TIA
cvt
