Branson 2400 manual gearbox. I have a clacking noise in the drivetrain when the clutch is engaged. It occurs even with all shifters in neutral and regardless of MFWD. Occasionally it will lock up and kill the engine, again even in neutral. If I disengage the clutch and lay underneath I can reproduce the noise by hand spinning the propeller shaft. Unfortunately I can't figure out which end the problem is coming from without removing it, because it carries the sound. Does this sound familiar? Could it be a ball joint at one end or the other?
Drivetrain clacking and locking up
- Thread starter kw00
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ptsg
Super Member
From your description, looks like the noise comes from inside the transmission and most likely it's a broken tooth on one of the gears. Once it gets to that particular spot, it either kills the engine or makes a heck of a bad noise.
I was checking the service manual for that tractor and looks like that tractor uses sliding mesh style transmission, which means the gears will slide to engage whatever gear you choose.
This kind of important because you mentioned that it will do it even with everything in neutral. With that being said, the only other gear that will be spinning while everything else is in Neutral is the reverse idler gear. I suspect this is where your problem resides, either a broken tooth on the idler gear or a broken tooth on the gear of the primary shaft that meshes with the reverse idler gear.
I was checking the service manual for that tractor and looks like that tractor uses sliding mesh style transmission, which means the gears will slide to engage whatever gear you choose.
This kind of important because you mentioned that it will do it even with everything in neutral. With that being said, the only other gear that will be spinning while everything else is in Neutral is the reverse idler gear. I suspect this is where your problem resides, either a broken tooth on the idler gear or a broken tooth on the gear of the primary shaft that meshes with the reverse idler gear.
RickB
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If it locks up periodically I would park it until you can tear it down and fix it.
Symptoms like yours can become broken housings faster than you can react.
Symptoms like yours can become broken housings faster than you can react.
ptsg
Super Member
I believe this is the correct service manual for your tractor. It might give you an idea if it's something you can work or not.
drive.google.com
I was going through that manual and found out that that model has the bellhousing separated from the actual transmission and rear end. Then just uses a subframe to connect everything together.
On the bellhousing side, it has a gearbox with just two gears. There is a possibility that your issue may be there too. One way to check, is to disconnect the shaft that goes from the bellhousing gearbox to the input shaft of the transmission. Then with the clutch depressed like tested before, rotate the shaft of this bellhousing gearbox and pay attention to any weird noises or something weird while rotating.
24002510 service manual.pdf
drive.google.com
I was going through that manual and found out that that model has the bellhousing separated from the actual transmission and rear end. Then just uses a subframe to connect everything together.
On the bellhousing side, it has a gearbox with just two gears. There is a possibility that your issue may be there too. One way to check, is to disconnect the shaft that goes from the bellhousing gearbox to the input shaft of the transmission. Then with the clutch depressed like tested before, rotate the shaft of this bellhousing gearbox and pay attention to any weird noises or something weird while rotating.
oldnslo
Super Member
Kw
Which propeller shaft are you spinning by hand? The going to the front axel or one from engine/clutch assembly?
reason for asking is that on my 2400H the input bearings on the front axel input shaft failed at low hours but this just locked up the front axel and never stalled the engine
is it possible one of the shift forks is out of adjustment so trans is being locked in two gears occasionally?
good luck on getting this resolved
bigtiller
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A mechanic's stethoscope is a handy tool for finding the location of mechanical problems.
A long screwdriver also works as does a section of air/gas/heater hose. Just hold one end to your ear and touch the other end in the area where the noise is coming from.
A long screwdriver also works as does a section of air/gas/heater hose. Just hold one end to your ear and touch the other end in the area where the noise is coming from.
