Drop spreader bearings

longrangelarry · Jan 19, 2015

I have an old (as in "originally horse drawn") Gandy drop spreader that I use for lime and fertilizer. 15 inch modern wheels have been welded onto the original steel hub. The wheels drive the agitator bar and the material just falls through slits in the bottom of the hopper. I used it last year in the condition I bought it but it squeaked horribly. Yesterday I pulled the bars or whatever you call them, which is also the axle. There are two of these bars connected in the middle of the hopper to make up the axle. There's a bearing in the middle and one on each end of the hopper body. (There's no frame per se, just the hopper.) I have never seen anything like these so-called bearings. They are basically cast iron doughnuts with a grease fitting that allows grease to be pumped into the inside of the ring, against the axle. That's it- no balls or rollers, and no case or seal to hold grease. Due to years of use without grease (I am sure) the axle inside the bearing has worn to less than the diameter of the rest of the axle. And I imagine the bearing has worn badly too- no way to know. Perhaps that's the way it was done in those days, but I don't see how it is supposed to work or what I can do to make it better. The fit is very loose, and even if it wasn't, wouldn't the grease just get squeezed out? I can't put a modern bearing in there, even if I could find the right size, because the end of the axle is larger in diameter than the bearing would have to be. If I put in a bearing that I could actually get on the axle, it would be very loose once in place, but I guess that would help. If it didn't cost a fortune. I have thought about making a pair of rubber collars to hold the grease in for awhile, since I could slip that over the "fat" end of the axle, but would it work better than just greasing them up and putting them back on as they are?

eddie48 · Jan 20, 2015

What you suggest might well work for a while. Have you considered putting a sleeve over the part of the axle where the bearing goes? Or weld up and then turn down the axle to replace the missing metal? Pictures would help

longrangelarry · Jan 20, 2015

Maybe tomorrow I can post a picture of the bearing but the axle is in another state where my property is. The axle is a hollow tube with mixer "fins" (rebar) welded on- a very simple part. However, the idea of a sleeve is a good one. I could cut off the entire end of each axle and weld on a slightly larger diameter piece that would accommodate a commercially available bearing. The diameter of the new piece would also have to be a decent fit to the old steel wheel "hub" onto which the 15" rims are welded- about 1.5 inches OD, I'd say. Since I don't weld I'd have to pay someone for that, and buy some pretty large bearings as well. I wonder if it's worth it, both in terms of price and utility? Guess I'll have to shop for bearing to find out. Thanks.

sleepybozo · Jan 21, 2015

Google "babbit bearings". It's possible that's what was there originally and have just worn out. Pouring new bearings isn't that hard, there are sites with directions. Since you pour them in place, the reduced diameter of the shafts won't matter. Drill the new bearing for the grease fitting, pump in some grease and you should be good to go.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

longrangelarry · Jan 21, 2015

It looks like something creative will be called for, since it's clear that there are no roller or ball bearings in that size. So far I can't even find bronze bearings that size either. When you suggest pouring new ones, you mean bronze? Sounds like pouring a lead joint in cast iron pipe, which I did a long time ago. What an interesting idea! I will also post a picture of the old one in a minute, just for fun.

longrangelarry · Jan 21, 2015

Thanks Sleepybozo. With my new education on babbit bearings, it's now obvious that's what I have. I think the best I could do is use the originals to make a mold and cast new bearings. But even then I would have to cut off the axle ends and weld on new ones to get back to the original diameter (2"), as well as put an insert of the same tubing in the mold to make the new bearings are the right ID. (The axle shafts are so pitted I don't think it would work to pour them in place.) It actually doesn't sound all that hard and the material would cost maybe $150. Plus cost of welding. 2" ID tube is common, I don't know about 2" OD. I'm no machinist. As a long time bullet caster, I have the pots and such and basic skills but do I want to mess with it? And I have the time. Guess I'm just chicken!

I will try to attach a picture.

Thanks again for the help.

kneedeep · Jan 22, 2015

Looks like a greasable bushing

longrangelarry · Jan 22, 2015

Yes I guess you could call it that, now that I cleaned out the hole and put a new fitting in there. But the play between it and the axle is large, due to wear on both. And there's nothing to hold the grease in there, such as a flange. So I assume if I greased it, it would all be out in a few minutes of use, right? Now, a flange is something even I could fabricate but the shaft is still smaller at that point than the end of the axle. I have thought about rubber flanges made from pipe couplings, but would they work well enough to tell the difference? That would be simple and they come in the right size. We've since decided to spread the lime off the back of a trailer, using leaf blowers, so that reduces the use of the spreader down to just spots too small for the trailer. Still, the spreader works great with pelletized lime and fertilizer, so I'd like to keep it in usable condition. Besides, I paid a couple hundred bucks for it last year.

Maybe try the rubber flanges this year and see about casting new babbits next year if that doesn't work? The more I think, the better I like that approach. I only thought about it because I've been reworking the piping on my rain barrel garden irrigation system this week. But that's another topic.

Thanks for the feedback; it really stimulates new ideas.