Effect of un-level trailer

[joshuabardwell]

I just picked up a weight-distribution system for my truck/trailer. The hitch receiver height is about 22". The coupler is about 15" high when the trailer's level. The coupler is about 20" high when the trailer is on the ball, with the head at its lowest position on the shank. My inclinometer shows that this puts the trailer about three degrees high of level.

Is this a big deal? Do I need to pony up the $100 or so for a shank with sufficient drop?

FWIW, it's a 7000 lb dual-axle utility trailer, and I do tend to load it to 3000-5000 lbs more often than not.

 

[jeffsw6]

The inclinometer is not necessarily telling you the whole story about tongue weight vs gross trailer weight, and truck squat. To tell the truth, it really is not a useful tool in this situation.

You could put 1000# of tongue weight on an F350 and might not even be able to tell there is a load on it. Put the same thing on a Tacoma and it is likely to be unsafe. On the F350 your level might tell you the tongue is too high because the F350 has really big rear springs and it just doesn't squat that much, yet the trailer may be easy to control. On the Tacoma your trailer would be closer to level but the Tacoma would be losing weight from its front axle and it would be hard to steer.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I guess I'm not really sure how to interpret what you're telling me. Sure, different trucks are going to squat different and ride different with different amounts of weight on them. I get that. I've got a WD system, so I should be able to control the amount of squat that way, right?

I had always been told that it was important to have the trailer ride level, so that the weight was evenly spread across the axles. Basically, I'm trying to figure out whether I need to buy the new shank to get the trailer 100% level or not.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Industry standard is 18" from the ground to ball top unloaded. This is not always possible.

I would get it level. I have weighed trailers that are unlevel having 70% or more of the weight being carried by the low axle. This is even worse in torsion axle situations.

Get it level or you will be overloading a axle, bearing, or more than likely a tire. I see it all the time.

Chris

 

[Egon]

Spend the bucks for an insert that will have the trailer level. Then use the equallizer to adjust to level when loaded.

Measure the empty truck height on the fender wells. Then try to adjust back to this height with trailer loaded. This keeps the steering geometry as it should be.

Air bags will also help make the level situation possible.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Yeah. I was afraid y'all would say that. I was hoping that just a few degrees might be acceptable, but I guess, especially if I'm going to be towing close to the trailer's capacity, even a small amount of unevenness will start to overload one axle. Doggone it.

Anybody in the market for a weight-distributing shank? :laughing:

 

[jejeosborne]

Yeah. I was afraid y'all would say that. I was hoping that just a few degrees might be acceptable, but I guess, especially if I'm going to be towing close to the trailer's capacity, even a small amount of unevenness will start to overload one axle. Doggone it.

Anybody in the market for a weight-distributing shank? :laughing:

Have you considered changing your axle to an overslung if it is now an underslung? It will raise your frame up about 5 inches helping from dragging but hurting the load height.

 

[jejeosborne]

[QUOTE="Egon]
Measure the empty truck height on the fender wells. Then try to adjust back to this height with trailer loaded. This keeps the steering geometry as it should be.

Air bags will also help make the level situation possible.[/QUOTE]

I check both front and rear wheel well distances empty, then try to get equal drops front and back. Your post makes it sound as if you at only checking the rear wheels. The rear shouldn't return to the preload distance. That would be over tension condition.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Have you considered changing your axle to an overslung if it is now an underslung? It will raise your frame up about 5 inches helping from dragging but hurting the load height.

I was under the impression that you couldn't do this, because the spring perches are either on the top or the bottom of the axle, and if you were to flip it around, it would reverse the camber of the wheels.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I check both front and rear wheel well distances empty, then try to get equal drops front and back. Your post makes it sound as if you at only checking the rear wheels. The rear shouldn't return to the preload distance. That would be over tension condition.

100% correct. At the moment, I'm just talking about lining up the ball height with the coupler on the trailer. I haven't even started working on the WD system yet.