electric baseboard

[hess]

I am planning a major renovation (including an addition) to our home, which will include the removal of our existing forced air system. Because of several factors, we cannot use the existing furnace or duct system.
We have considered virtually all methods of heating, and have not yet made a decision on which to install, but I have several questions regarding electric baseboard heat (as it is the most economical to install for the Do-It-Yourselfer. I am particularly interested in how much this will cost, per month, to run.

I'd appreciate as much info as anyone could give, especially the size of your home, where you live,and any supplemental heat sources (wood stoves, etc.). The best info would be if you know how much your kWh's increase during the winter months.

Basically, I am trying to determine kWh x electric rate = cost to run.

Just for reference, we live in PA, in a soon to be 2700 sq. ft. home, including the finished basement, which we intend to heat.

Again, any and all info would be appreciated.

Thanks, hess.

 

[Hillbilly]

Growing up my father was a contractor,he installed (Intertherm) baseboard heaters in the houses he built,now that has been several years so I cannot give you a cost on to run them now,but they are a very good brand,instead of a heating element,they have a liquid filled copper tube in place of the (toaster type of heating element) which is found inside of some homes. The liquid filled are safer,they do not get red hot like the exposed "toaster type" element since the liquid in the copper tube is what is heated,also when the temperature reaches set point on the thermostat and turns the baseboard heater off,the liquid filled tube still gives of heat a while longer. A very even type of heat,they are not heating up and cooling down as fast.
In West Virginia there is a place called "State Electric" which is a big electric supply company that sells them.
I hope this helps you some.

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

Hess,

I can't give you any info on cost to heat, at least at this moment. I might be able to a little research later to see what I can find. I can tell you that every electric house I have been in has been heavily insulated. Check out Owens Cornings website. (Search on Owens-Corning). They have a page that lets you enter your zip code and type of heat and find out how much insulation you need to meet energy guidelines. Be advised that the guildelines shifted last year. Most State energy codes have not caught up yet. (Mine hasn't). National labs are now recommending R38 in Vaulted ceilings (a jump from R30), and I believe R49 in flat ceilings, this is in my locality and so things might change for yours. You can also get a lot of good information on where and how to apply the insulation products.

SHF

 

[Anonymous Poster]

My wife's house, in Allentown, had an electric heat system, no gas in the subdivision. Hers involved storing heat in water tanks, during off peak hours, at a lower rate/kwh. Back in 95, she was only paying 2.5cents/kwh, so electric heat in any form, was pretty cost effective.
It will be far more cost effective if you have off peak metering, along with those low PPL rates. As a comparison, Rochester Gas & Electric is 12.8 cents/kwh, so we don't even consider electric heat here.
If your design will accomodate creating a heat battery, during off peak hours, insulation outside the basement walls with an apron, electric heat might be a good way to go. With a bit of switching, you will be able to run the heaters on peak as well, if you need to.
You also might want to consider hot water baseboard, there are some nice plastic piping systems available today, and they install almost as easily as wiring for electric heat.