Electric Question - Water well sub panel

Bellville · Aug 17, 2005

After reading with great interest the thread on the 220 volt outlet I thought I might post my plan for getting power to the well and make sure I am on the right track.

First off starting with a 50 amp breaker in my main panel, I will run 6 - 3 with ground in buried conduit 110' over to the well site.

This will terminate in a Square D, Nema 3, QO, 100 amp, 6 space, load center. I have purchased a separate ground bar and will not have the neutral and ground connected to each other in the sub panel.

Then coming off a 30 amp breaker in the sub panel I will run 10 - 3 in conduit about 10' over to the well contact points.

The reason I want to install a load center is that eventually I will have a well house built over the well and would like to have a light and outlet for 110. It is also possible I may like to make a short run of 12 - 3 to the front gate so my wife could have Christmas lights.

Any input on my plan would be appreciated.

Thanks

DTCOOPER · Aug 17, 2005

Jack,
Aside from you using overpriced distribution gear /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (just kidding, I sell GE and Siemens) /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Everything looks fine.. As I offered to all others here on TBN before, I will saell you any electrical parts you need, at cost, plus UPS shipping. No mark-up on them..

Let me know if you need anything else,
Daniel

Bellville · Aug 18, 2005

Daniel, thanks for the response, just wanted to make sure I was doing it right. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

slowzuki · Aug 18, 2005

Thats a pretty generous offer! My electrician chose Siemens because he was close to that supplier, I've found the 50 amp breakers to be a bit pricy for Joe off the steet to buy.

We have similar setup, our electrical entrance lands at our wellhouse in a Siemens 200 amp panel with a 220 v outlet for the sawmill and a 110 V for misc stuff. The main lugs of the panel will eventually head up the hill to our shop and another 200 amp panel.

( Jack,
Aside from you using overpriced distribution gear /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (just kidding, I sell GE and Siemens) /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Everything looks fine.. As I offered to all others here on TBN before, I will saell you any electrical parts you need, at cost, plus UPS shipping. No mark-up on them..

Let me know if you need anything else,
Daniel

)

woodlot · Aug 18, 2005

Bell - The basic plan sounds good. Just one thing. Your underground run in conduit should not be cable (romex). You should use individual conductors rated for use in wet location, sorry I cant remember the exact classification for the wire, its something like THWN. Dircect burial cable in conduit is a code violation, it may overheat. DB is designed to disipate heat directly to the dirt surrounding it, it can't do that when encased in conduit.

djradz · Aug 18, 2005

Jack, why 10-3 to well pump contact points? As the neutral will not be connected, I think you can just run 10-2. You may even get by with 12-2 depending on the load and distance, and save quite a bit in cable cost, if the run is very far.

woodlot · Aug 18, 2005

If he's using a 30 amp breaker he'll need to run 10awg no matter what. I agree about using 10-2 w/g. No need for the neutral if wiring the pump 220vac.

mudcat · Aug 18, 2005

( If he's using a 30 amp breaker he'll need to run 10awg no matter what. )

And what makes you state such?

buckeyefarmer · Aug 18, 2005

Probably article 310-15 of NEC since he's in US.

Wiring size and overcurrent protection will really depend on motor amps & distance. Most likely would use THHW, and if he's using #10, would need 30 AMP breaker...
But your point might be he could use #8 wire, and still protect with a 30Amp breaker.

Bellville · Aug 21, 2005

Woodlot,

thanks for the heads up on the wire type, I will make a change in plan.

Djradz

Thanks, I actually meant to say 10-2 with ground, not 10-3.

Thanks all for the input, just need to rent a ditch witch now and on to the trenching............