msb1766
Platinum Member
I added rear remotes to my Cub Cadet/Yanmar SC2450 sub compact tractor using Summit Hydraulics Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors.
This kit will connect to the two quick connect power beyond couplers on the rear of your machine, These are the couplers often used to connect a backhoe and then are connected to each other when the backhoe is not in use.
This kit requires you to assemble the kit yourself.
You can get 2, 3 , or 4 valves.
I went with 3 valves.
To control the valves you can get rocker switches or loader control switches
With the 3 valve kit I went with 1 rocker and 2 sets of buttons on the loader grip.
Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors
This kit was easy to assemble and instructions were good.
You will need the following tools to assemble the couplers, valve body and plugs:
27mm wrench, 1” wrench, ⅞” wrench, ⅜” hex/allen and 5/32” or 4mm hex/allen.
The couplers that come with the kit are 1/2″ Body AG ISO 5675 Female Couplers with ½” NPT threads.
I called and asked if they would substitute a different size and style and they would not.
I got this kit to run a hydraulic top link, added a hydraulic cylinder to my back blade and to run a hydraulic cylinder to my front mounted snowblower chute deflector.
Also a grapple.
You will need to know which couplers on your tractor are the pressure and return of the power beyond.
The body of the kit has a port maked P (pressure) and a port marked T (tank/return)
There are two ways to mount the body vertically and horizontally.
With very heavy duty brackets.
In my case my power beyond hoses couplers are ISO 7241-1 Series B (3/8:”)
You will have to know what type and size of power beyond couplers your tractor has so you can hook this to your tractor.
You will need to get the couplers to add to the supplied hoses that connect to the body.
I determined this by printing out this coupler identification chart:
https://summit-hydraulics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Quick-Coupler-Identifiaction-Chart-min.pdf
I ordered all my couplers, hoses and fittings from:
Discount Hydraulic Hose | Your Online Hydraulic Shop
Thay offer many hose options I went with ⅜” inside diameter hoses.
They offer hose labelling and hose protection as options
I bought hose protection from Amazon, but the longer hoses it was a pain to put on
I wish I had them put the hose protection on.
The kit was easy to wire and they give you plenty of length on the wiring harness.
I went with the 3 spool setup, the rocker switch I mounted to my tractor by the 3 point lift/lower lever, that way it was easy to hit the switch to bring the hydraulic top link in or out.
I bought the top link form here:
http://haytools.com/TNT.htm
I have seen others use a normal hydraulic cylinder for a top link but then you do not have an anti-creep valve or check valve that will hold it in place.
Running the hoses to the top link was really easy. I went to a local hydraulic shop to get some hoses and fittings made, that was not a cheap place to go. It was probably double the price of what Discount Hydraulics would have been. But I would go back if I blew a hose in and needed it right away.
I used Permatex thread sealant for the NPT fittings
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX7652681?impressionRank=23
Did not have any leaks
The back blade I had to weld on brackets to mount the cylinder, i uses an 2 ½” bore 8” stroke cylinder that i got from amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VDWDT5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am using the top buttons on the loader control that replaced the knob on the loader control joystick.
The cylinder moves very smoothly and can stop it in any position, and can make very slight adjustments.
For the snowblower chute deflector I ran hoses from the valve body under the tractor to a L shaped bracket that I mounted to the bottom of the floorboard next to the loader couplers.
Used bulkhead connectors for this.
2706LN-04-06 | 1/4" NPTF Male Pipe x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead
Added a male and female quick couplers the the another end
Made and mounted the cylinder to the snowblower chute.
Used a 1” bore 4” stroke cylinder if the deflector.
As for this small cylinder I needed to slow down the hydraulic flow as it moved way too fast.
I ordered two flow control valves:
Hydraulic Flow Control Needle Valve, 1/4" NPT Ports - Summit Hydraulics
I used this setup all winter and it was great.
Swapped out the back blade for my weight box many times and it was a lot easier to do with the hydraulic top link, the chute deflector cylinder worked great.
I had a 12 volt linear actuator on there for many years but it was a tad too slow and last winter water started getting into it.
With the hydraulic cylinder on the back blade I did not have to get out of the tractor to manually adjust the back blade left, right, or straight.
This kit will connect to the two quick connect power beyond couplers on the rear of your machine, These are the couplers often used to connect a backhoe and then are connected to each other when the backhoe is not in use.
This kit requires you to assemble the kit yourself.
You can get 2, 3 , or 4 valves.
I went with 3 valves.
To control the valves you can get rocker switches or loader control switches
With the 3 valve kit I went with 1 rocker and 2 sets of buttons on the loader grip.
Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors
This kit was easy to assemble and instructions were good.
You will need the following tools to assemble the couplers, valve body and plugs:
27mm wrench, 1” wrench, ⅞” wrench, ⅜” hex/allen and 5/32” or 4mm hex/allen.
The couplers that come with the kit are 1/2″ Body AG ISO 5675 Female Couplers with ½” NPT threads.
I called and asked if they would substitute a different size and style and they would not.
I got this kit to run a hydraulic top link, added a hydraulic cylinder to my back blade and to run a hydraulic cylinder to my front mounted snowblower chute deflector.
Also a grapple.
You will need to know which couplers on your tractor are the pressure and return of the power beyond.
The body of the kit has a port maked P (pressure) and a port marked T (tank/return)
There are two ways to mount the body vertically and horizontally.
With very heavy duty brackets.
In my case my power beyond hoses couplers are ISO 7241-1 Series B (3/8:”)
You will have to know what type and size of power beyond couplers your tractor has so you can hook this to your tractor.
You will need to get the couplers to add to the supplied hoses that connect to the body.
I determined this by printing out this coupler identification chart:
https://summit-hydraulics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Quick-Coupler-Identifiaction-Chart-min.pdf
I ordered all my couplers, hoses and fittings from:
Discount Hydraulic Hose | Your Online Hydraulic Shop
Thay offer many hose options I went with ⅜” inside diameter hoses.
They offer hose labelling and hose protection as options
I bought hose protection from Amazon, but the longer hoses it was a pain to put on
I wish I had them put the hose protection on.
The kit was easy to wire and they give you plenty of length on the wiring harness.
I went with the 3 spool setup, the rocker switch I mounted to my tractor by the 3 point lift/lower lever, that way it was easy to hit the switch to bring the hydraulic top link in or out.
I bought the top link form here:
http://haytools.com/TNT.htm
I have seen others use a normal hydraulic cylinder for a top link but then you do not have an anti-creep valve or check valve that will hold it in place.
Running the hoses to the top link was really easy. I went to a local hydraulic shop to get some hoses and fittings made, that was not a cheap place to go. It was probably double the price of what Discount Hydraulics would have been. But I would go back if I blew a hose in and needed it right away.
I used Permatex thread sealant for the NPT fittings
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX7652681?impressionRank=23
Did not have any leaks
The back blade I had to weld on brackets to mount the cylinder, i uses an 2 ½” bore 8” stroke cylinder that i got from amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VDWDT5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am using the top buttons on the loader control that replaced the knob on the loader control joystick.
The cylinder moves very smoothly and can stop it in any position, and can make very slight adjustments.
For the snowblower chute deflector I ran hoses from the valve body under the tractor to a L shaped bracket that I mounted to the bottom of the floorboard next to the loader couplers.
Used bulkhead connectors for this.
2706LN-04-06 | 1/4" NPTF Male Pipe x 3/8" JIC Bulkhead
Added a male and female quick couplers the the another end
Made and mounted the cylinder to the snowblower chute.
Used a 1” bore 4” stroke cylinder if the deflector.
As for this small cylinder I needed to slow down the hydraulic flow as it moved way too fast.
I ordered two flow control valves:
Hydraulic Flow Control Needle Valve, 1/4" NPT Ports - Summit Hydraulics
I used this setup all winter and it was great.
Swapped out the back blade for my weight box many times and it was a lot easier to do with the hydraulic top link, the chute deflector cylinder worked great.
I had a 12 volt linear actuator on there for many years but it was a tad too slow and last winter water started getting into it.
With the hydraulic cylinder on the back blade I did not have to get out of the tractor to manually adjust the back blade left, right, or straight.
