Electrical Draining & Starting Problem

[coffeyp]

I have a 1947 M series. My battery is getting drained quickly and won't start. It kicks over at first but doesn't keep running. When I try and start it a few more times it drains the battery. I changed out the battery to make sure it wasn't the battery.

I traced out the wiring except within the harness and at the switch. I was able to remove the bottom plate but not get to the back of the switch plate. I taped the wires wherever there were bare spots. I can't figure out where the short, ground, or why the battery is getting drained.

Any help would be greatly apprecaited.

 

[Tx Jim]

Starter needs repair.

 

[DJ54]

If your battery is getting drained in between times of when you use it, it could be the voltage regulator sticking, and letting it drain. It's hard to find one to last more than a couple years, anymore, that doesn't stick, letting the battery drain, or just work period..

I have had a loose ( didn't really look like it, but was) generator belt, or worn belt. not let it charge the battery up to full charge. What does your amp gauge read, when you do get it started..? If everything is working, I'd think it should be reading at least 10 amps of charge.

Also, a heavier set of battery cables help. If it is still 6 volt, automotive type 12V cables are pretty light for them. A lot of good parts stores, or Equipment dealers have bulk cable, and ends to custom make you a set. Not cheap, but it do make those starters sing like they should..!!

If you have a good starter/gen./alt. repair shop close, they can do a bench test on your starter. I prefer to have mine rebuilt, and know what I have...

 

[kjung17]

Coffey,
I think DJ is on the right track. Here is a pretty quick test. Remove the Ground wire from your battery. Not necessarily the negative cable on that vintage machine. It will be the short one bolted to the chassis. After removing the cable, you should be able to touch it to the post that it just came off of and see a small spark. You will not be able to see the spark in bright light. If you then remove the battery wire from your regulator and try the spark test again you should find that it no longer makes the spark. This will confirm that your regulator is the draw. You can also hook up a meter or small light between the battery post and the disconnected cable to test actual draw. A regulator will generally give you the spark though. Good luck.

 

[Craig Clayton]

In the mean time you could install a anti theft switch on the battery positive and open it when you are finished for the day. Then hunt down the drain as suggested when you have more time.

Craig Clayton

 

[kjung17]

Yeah.:laughing: It's not like he'll lose the presets on his radio.:thumbsup:

 

[DJ54]

I thought of one of those safety switches, but figured I'd just hop off, and forget to turn it off. I did a Google search for an inline autotive diode. Low and behold this link:Universal In-line Diode had to them. Of all places, in the UK.

The price was right, between $5-$6 each. ( The site has a currency converter, or did last year...) I thought about the shipping figuring it would be astronomical to here in Ohio. I went ahead, and put 3 in the order space, just to see what shipping was. If it was a ridiculous price, I'd just cancel it. Shipping from the UK was just over $5.00.

I thought that there was no way that was right, so zero'd it out, and did it again. Same price for shipping $5 + some change... So..., I tried 5 of the diodes... Same price for shipping.

So.., ordered 5 of them, and they were here within a week. I put one on my Super C Farmall, to test one out. I normally use it once every two weeks to grind feed. The battery is getting bad, but starts real well by hand cranking. It charges well, but drains back through the regulator, and is ususlly dead by the next time I need it. I put this baby inline, and the battery stays up enough to get it started, even at the two week intervals.

If you don't mind splicing one of these in the battery wire off the regulator, if you find that this is the problem, I'd say it is worth it. At least it is to me.

 

[DRufenach]

It may not be a battery problem if it is a gas model ,but a carb problem. if it starts but don't keep running,try taking the carb apart and use a gasket sealer.I had the same problem on an old combine.The gaskets were dry which caused air to enter.