Engine dies after 10 minutes

machinefarmer · Jul 11, 2009

I have a 1602D that has ran great for 8 years, until now. What I thought was a fuel problem did not go away after I replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the pump, cleaned everything in between and replaced the filter. (again) Here's the problem...engine runs strong for about 10 to 15 minutes, even under a heavy load then starts to lose power, and it will eventually die. If I leave the throttle wide open with no load on the engine it will "surge", going from 2000+ rpm to almost killing, then it will surge up again, and repaet. It will surge like that and falter, and usually it will eventually die even with the throttle wide open. It was always restart, but it goes right into the surge problem. When it goes into the "faltering" or surge symtoms, it makes almost no power whatsoever. I can't even get the tractor to move in low gear without killing the engine. Here is the crazy part....if the tractors sits several hours or over night, it starts right up and I get a new 10 to 15 minutes of running time with full power and no problems.

I have ben thinking that once it gets hot, I have a head gasket issue or loss of compression. But I have no water in the oil, or oil in the coolant. There does seems to be some blow-by out the breather tube, but some blow-by is normal. I hve pulled the exaust to check for blockage and my intake system is clean with a freash filter. It is not running hot.

I hope this is not my injection or fuel pump going bad. I know there are some smart Yanmar guys out there....please help. My email is jimpflepsen@yahoo.com or post your thoughts. Thanks in advance and thanks Tractorbynet for the space.

Inspector507 · Jul 11, 2009

The first thing to try is to crack open the fill cap on the tank. The vent in the cap may be plugged.

PILOON · Jul 11, 2009

Starvation for sure.
Filter? or tank vent?
If it were winter it could have been slushing or gelled fuel

LMTC · Jul 11, 2009

Bad injectors will do that. So will other things.

tallyho8 · Jul 11, 2009

It could be caused by many different things. My 1802 is very similar to your 1602 and I had a similar problem which I posted here and received many replies as to what might correct it. I never did find out exactly what was wrong but I did make a rig to correct the problem and it has not recurred in the last 1 1/2 years.

I am not saying that this is the cure to your problem but I think that if you read this thread you will find out many of the things that could cause this problem.
https://beta.tractorbynet.net/forums/index.php?posts/1311095/

machinefarmer · Jul 12, 2009

Tally HO, Thank you for the "link" to the history of your problem. I'm certian that I face the same situation after I read the entire link. I think I will immediatly install your "bleed line" idea. I am very happy about finding this web site...it's obviously the people that share ideas and take the time to help others that make it great. I will re-post if I get the problem fixed today!

I'm an x-drag racer and hot rodder. I thought I knew my way around most any mechanical problem and I strongly felt the problem with my 1602D was fuel related from day one. However, I have wracked my brain all summer with this problem, until I saw your "tread" last night. Thanks again to Tally, and all those that helped him with this problem the first time around.

Machinefarmer

machinefarmer · Jul 13, 2009

No luck with the custom return fuel line designed by Tally Ho. I think I did find the problem tonight. I pulled the fuel filter unit and shut off valve and installed a canister type fuel filter in line. (That type of filter will always trap air, even when bleeding the line to the union fitting.) But, the engine ran better. I then pulled apart the shut off valve and discovered a bad area on the O ring. I'm not sure, but I think the bad O ring on the shut off valve was allowing air into the line. I think that is true because as I was running the tractor down my drive way...and when it would sputter, I reached around and pushed the bleed button that fills the sediment bowl. Lots of bubbles would come out of the line. Even running the engine in the shop...I found that after a few minutes I could get bubbles and air out of the over flow tube when I pushed the "button" on the fuel filter unit.

So...I need to find the correct O ring in town tommorrow, and I'll give it another try.

In my experimenting, I capped the overflow line from the cold start resevour to the intake manifold. It seemed like excess fuel could be dumping into there. I don't understand how that system is supposed to work. Any advice on that issue? Thanks, JP