engine won't shut off

joeberry · Sep 29, 2007

Ok, thanks, I got the clutch solved, thanks a lot. NOW, when I turn the key off, the engine keeps running. The key switch checks out and I have to pull the coil wire to kill the mill. H_E_L_P............thanks ~~~~~ joe b

Soundguy · Sep 29, 2007

Hmm.. only things I can think of are:

1, completely miswired and coil/points are always hot.

2, and more likely.. you have added a 3-wire alternator.. like a gm delco 10/12 SI style, and you have the #1 wire wired tot he ignition for field excitement at the alternator.. and have not installed a diode ( cathode end towards alternator ).. or a 194 lamp in series with this line to provide isolation tot he ignition. Once the alternator begins producing power, there will be power at the #1 terminal. when you turn your key switch off, this power will keep the coil/points energized unless you use one of the two isolation techniques I mentioned.

Soundguy

joeberry · Sep 29, 2007

no, it is still original. the key worked fine yesterday, and now it is ka-put. I took the key switch out to bypass, but it did the same thing .........it starts fine, just won't go off unless I pull the coil plug ................thanks jb

irwin · Sep 29, 2007

joeberry: Did this happen right after you did something to get your clutch to function properly?

~.. By the way, you should post a follow-up to your last thread ..~

Give us a little back ground. What is this tractor, what has been done to it lately?
Sure sounds like something is shorted, I'd start where it was last worked on. Carefully inspect any repairs, anything taken apart. Did you have to jump start it? Fill in some of these huge blanks.

joeberry · Sep 29, 2007

it's a 641 workmaster ford. My parents had it repainted and cleaned up. It had been run during the makeover, but never put into drive gear then or the past 7 years. It started up and key'd off just fine. It was loaded in 2nd gear, and that was jammed in. The guy that loaded it could not find the brakes or the throttle and it got dang near twisted sideways, it was rather funny, but only until he sort of crashed it in my cargo trailer. Soooooo, several folks had the idea to break the clutch loose -- start it, stay on the clutch, drive it and brake, and it worked fine. The only thing I had to do was to jack up the rear only with a floor jack and get re-aligned. She starts now right up and shifts great. BUT the shut off went south. So, between the transport and home, 6 miles, it started this. Again, the wiring has not been touched, same original stuff. I am now the 3rd Berry male to own it, bought new by Gramps in "63 weatherford Tx. I cam pul;l the positive coil wire or the coil to distributer wires, either on and she will stop running ................any help would be great. Tommorrow I plan to pull the hood and trace all the wiring, ck connections and replace as needed. There a lot of conections, I am used to simple street rods with HEI electronics............jb ......

irwin · Sep 29, 2007

Not familar with this set-up, but the ign switch should shut off power to the coil positive .
Does it have any relays? check fuse block for anything abnormal, check for corrosion, pinched wires, heat damage on ignition switch, ( a bad ignition switch can have no visible sign of problem). You're familar with hot rods, so this should be doable for you..

good luck

Soundguy · Sep 30, 2007

Something is being left out here.

Ford electrical systems of that era were -VERY- simple. The key switch on that 6v gas tractor grabs power from the load side of the charge indicator, and then supplies it to the coil primary terminal. if the key is suppling power when off, or disconected.. guess what.. the wire to the coil is hooked up somewhere else!

Pull the wire at the coil primary.. trace it back and find out where it actually goes.. because it obviously isn't going to the switched side of that ignition switch you are dinking with!!

Unless you have some kind of magif 'tesla' dc power beaming device on that tractor.. then that wire to the coil primary IS picking up power from somewhere OTHER than the switched side of the key switch.

And you said it still had the oem generator and voltage regulator.. correct?

Soundguy

joeberry said:
it's a 641 workmaster ford. My parents had it repainted and cleaned up. It had been run during the makeover, but never put into drive gear then or the past 7 years. It started up and key'd off just fine. It was loaded in 2nd gear, and that was jammed in. The guy that loaded it could not find the brakes or the throttle and it got dang near twisted sideways, it was rather funny, but only until he sort of crashed it in my cargo trailer. Soooooo, several folks had the idea to break the clutch loose -- start it, stay on the clutch, drive it and brake, and it worked fine. The only thing I had to do was to jack up the rear only with a floor jack and get re-aligned. She starts now right up and shifts great. BUT the shut off went south. So, between the transport and home, 6 miles, it started this. Again, the wiring has not been touched, same original stuff. I am now the 3rd Berry male to own it, bought new by Gramps in "63 weatherford Tx. I cam pul;l the positive coil wire or the coil to distributer wires, either on and she will stop running ................any help would be great. Tommorrow I plan to pull the hood and trace all the wiring, ck connections and replace as needed. There a lot of conections, I am used to simple street rods with HEI electronics............jb ......