externally regulated alternator question

[Soundguy]

if it runs with your quick change in power wire setup. and you were just interested in getting it running.. i would think the addition of another switch inline would be the FAST , EASY way to get it done.. ( remember.. fast and easy are the path to the dark side per yoda )

 

[VTPSD]

if it runs with your quick change in power wire setup. and you were just interested in getting it running.. i would think the addition of another switch inline would be the FAST , EASY way to get it done.. ( remember.. fast and easy are the path to the dark side per yoda )

well i pretty much live on the dark side. :laughing: Try to stay on the lighter end of the dark side however!
i think i try a relay that is triggered by the ignition switch and mount it next to the regulator with an inline fuse. All stuff I have in my electric bin, 10 minutes of work.

 

[VTPSD]

i messed with the wiring at the switch, but couldnt make the charging system work that way. I took a wire and ran it from my acc post on the switch directly to the red wire on the regulator and now it charges at 14.03 volts across the rev range like it should. Has no draw with the key off. Only downfall is my charing light does not work, not ideal. The oil pressure light is the one I really care about.

 

[Soundguy]

if the charge lamp doesn't work.. I still think you have a problem in the wire harness or a bad connection.

 

[VTPSD]

if the charge lamp doesn't work.. I still think you have a problem in the wire harness or a bad connection.

it did work before, but i have the red wire at the alternator cut and capped on the harness end with power feeding into it on the regulator end from my accessory switch, so i didnt expect it to work now.
I agree, there is a wiring problem somewhere, or many problems. Literally nothing worked except the started on this thing when I got this, and that actually stopped working when the switch died.
Diesels sure allow you to get lazy on the electrical side. Ideally id like to just redo most of the harness, its pretty darn simple really. If I had my hand on a wiring diagram it would be no issue at all!
For now it charges and the oil pressure light works, so I have the necessities to keep doing work.

 

[Qapla]

We used to have a Ford 1900 that developed similar problems. We were able to get it charging when we replaced the ignition switch but it still had a "drain" problem. Never could locate it. Our fix was simple. We got a "battery switch" that installs on the positive battery post and the battery cable connects to that. You turn the switch when you park and the battery is no longer connected. Turn the switch back when you want to use the tractor.

Of course, the battery was right in the front and easy to get to.

Worked just fine till we traded that tractor for something bigger.

 

[Coyote machine]

14.03 volts across the rev range is acceptable, but 14.25-14.5 is better 15.0+ is pushing the upper end of output.
You could add an oil pressure gauge which would be more useful than a replace engine light.

 

[VTPSD]

replace engine light, I LIKE THAT!:laughing:
I would like to have a gauge and a good coolant temp gauge too.

 

[RickB]

An oil pressure gauge needle sitting at zero won't catch your eye like a red light.
What's not "good" about your current temp gauge?

 

[VTPSD]

An oil pressure gauge needle sitting at zero won't catch your eye like a red light.
What's not "good" about your current temp gauge?

current temp gauge needs to be replaced i think. There is power to it, sender gives the right ohm readings and changes as it warms up, wiring is good to gauge. When I say nothing electrical worked on this tractor, i mean absolutely nothing.

 

[Coyote machine]

An oil pressure gauge needle sitting at zero won't catch your eye like a red light.
What's not "good" about your current temp gauge?

In either case, by the time one sees a light or needle at zero there is usually toast where the engine used to be. Granted, not always, but having both a light AND a gauge is what I personally prefer.

 

[Soundguy]

a real gauge.. not a buffered dummy gauge like most auto's have today though...

 

[RickB]

In either case, by the time one sees a light or needle at zero there is usually toast where the engine used to be. Granted, not always, but having both a light AND a gauge is what I personally prefer.

I've had a low oil pressure indicator lamp save me two engines over the years during catastrophic oil loss events. You won't ever see me complain about "idiot lights".

Whether an engine carries 38 or 47 PSI of oil pressure doesn't matter to me a single bit. Your mileage may vary.

 

[VTPSD]

I've had a low oil pressure indicator lamp save me two engines over the years during catastrophic oil loss events. You won't ever see me complain about "idiot lights".

Whether an engine carries 38 or 47 PSI of oil pressure doesn't matter to me a single bit. Your mileage may vary.

i think both is best. its nice to monitor oil pressure in case it starts trending down (bearings going out), but for oil loss all at once, need a light or buzzer!

 

[Coyote machine]

i think both is best. its nice to monitor oil pressure in case it starts trending down (bearings going out), but for oil loss all at once, need a light or buzzer!

Exactly why both is the way to go. With a gauge one knows what normal looks like; without one the engine failure light is too much of a replace everything now warning.

 

[sd455dan]

if i had a diagram of how it was supposed to be, i would be set. Not the easiest thing to come by, particularly when I am not even 100% sure of what tractor I have.

This is what I used

The key switch applies 12 volts to the yellow regulator wire in the on position
The charge light wire terminates on the alternator 9 oclock position in your picture with the red or orange from the regulator
The green field wire from the regulator terminates on the brush connector on the alternator (12 oclock in your picture)

this might get the system up and working