Factory wheel weights were too expensive!

   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #1  

keeney

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2001
Messages
1,060
Location
Minnesota
Tractor
JD 4100 HST
When I put the snowblower on the front of my 4100, it was recommended to add 120lbs of weights to each rear wheel.

This wouldn't really help take any weight off the front wheels, but I suppose it improves stability and adds traction. I haven't had any traction issues without weights, but I thought I should look into getting some in case I ever do find myself needing more traction.

I was very surprised by how expensive the JD factory wheel weights are!

I decided to make my own. I used 25lb weight plates. About 11 inches diameter x 1.5 inches thick. They cost 40 to 50 cents per lb at a used exercise equipment store.

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   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive!
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I bored four 5/8" dia. holes on a 10.0" dia. bolt circle in each weight.

After painting they are mounted with ½ x 8" carriage bolts. I used the carriage bolts because they don't leave any sharp edges sticking out of the wheel to snag on as you walk by the parked tractor in my crowded garage.

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#3  
I was going to match the 10.5" circle of holes already in the wheel for the factory weights, but the diameter of the plates was slightly too small for that. Instead I ended up slotting the holes in the wheel to accommodate the 10.0 dia. circle of holes on the weights. I didn't want to remove the weights just for a photo, but in this close-up of the nut on the inside of the wheel you can see that the hole is slotted.

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   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
A stack of 4 on each wheel adds 100 lbs. and is just flush with the edge of the tire.

With longer bolts you could fit 125lb or maybe 150lb on each wheel this way. If the wheels were flipped to the wide position, 5 plates should still be recessed in the wheel.

I think the overall look is not too bad and was a lot cheaper than the factory weights.

- Rick
 

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   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #5  
Looks good. Thats what I am going to do with my Ingersoll. BTW what size wheels are on that thing? I was going to use 45lb plates on mine, but maby that would be to big. I have 16" wheels on mine.
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #6  
Like you, I was really set back by the cost of the JD factory weights. I ran across a set-up on the Tractor Hacker Page that is what I'm going to try to use with my 4400. You can see it <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mgsweb.com/tractor/hacker/wweight.htm>here</A>. The advantage I see to this set-up is the ease with which weights could be put on and removed. While the mounting plate could remain attaced all the time, you could add or reduce weight very easily. Our local Wal-Mart has some 45# weights that I'm going to use that have a 2" center hole and have cast in "handles" that would facilitate adding/removing weight even more. These weights are around $19.00 for the 45# weight. I figure that with fabricating the base plate and buying 10 of the weights (enough for 5 on each side), I'll still have less than 1/3 of the cost of the JD weights tied up in it.

Hoss
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #7  
Keeney; This looks good and I think I will do the same and just use 50 pound universal plates from my current weight system. I will also look into making up some plates/brackets much like the Kubota that is pictures in the other message. That looks pretty good, but then again, so does your design.

nuru
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
s1120,

The wheels are 15" with the turfs on the JD 4100 (other tire types use different wheels).

The center area had about 12 inches of space. I was hoping to find some plates of about 11.5 inch diameter, but the ones I ended up using were 11.0 inch diamater.

- Rick
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive!
  • Thread Starter
#9  
CVHoss, Nuru,

I looked at the design of having a base plate with center post, but I wanted to avoid having the plates be loose to rattle around. I wanted them bolted them on tight. This design does however share some of the same knuckle-busting attributes of mounting the factory-style weights. You have to hold 100 or 125lb of stuff up on the wheel in the right place while getting the bolt in place and starting the nut on the other side of the wheel.

In my case, they will only come on and off once per season. On for winter plowing and snow-blowing, and off for summer mowing, so its not a big deal if they take half an hour to put on or take off.

- Rick
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #10  
I got a seat of rear wheel weights from a john deere 7700 combine. The bolt patern matched to my JD R-4's I gave $90 for the pair. There atleast 150LB each way to heavy one person to put on.
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #11  
Well DDT, with the assistance of a floor jack, you could probably do it!

Nuru
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #12  
Keeney, I would think I would have the same situation, or leave them on for dirt/loose materials work.

Nuru
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #13  
Hi Keeney,

What I did was get one of those dirt scoops for the 3pt hitch. Load it up with a few hundred pounds of sand bags, and voila!

Plus, the dirt scoop will come in handy for lots of things during the summer..

It works great, and it puts the weight out behind the tractor..

I plowed snow up hill without even bothering with 4WD or diff lock. Or course, maybe I could have done the same thing without the weight. I have lots to learn. The neat thing about the dirt scoop is, you just unhook it from the hitch it about one minute. I bet the wheel weights take at least five minutes. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #14  
Bob, I am looking at a dirt scoop to perform some duties until I get the loader (or if I don't).

Nuru
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #15  
Keeney, The threaded rod in the center bolts the weights tightly and they do not move or rattle at all. I have been using them for 3 or 4 years now, removed and reinstalled several times, and never had them get loose or rattle. When I was first thinking of the design, I was going to use a smooth rod in the center with a pin at the end to hold the weights on. I decided on the threaded rod with a nut to prevent weight movement and rattles.

Andy
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #16  
Looks great! There's one thing I see that you need to address. Put a flat washer in between the lock washer and the wheel. The split in the lock washer is going to turn and line up with the slot in the wheel and it'll lose tension. If you drop your weights in the field it will mess up your whole day. :(
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #17  
Nuru, if you lived in the Southwest US, I'd make you a good deal on my dirt scoop. But the freight costs would be prohibitive if you're not in this region. I bought and used my scoop for about a year and a half before buying my loader. If you don't have a loader, they are an essential implement. But once I got my loader, I have only used it a few times.
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #18  
<font color=blue>...I am looking at a dirt scoop to perform some duties until I get the loader (or if I don't).</font color=blue>

Hi Nuru,

Yes, it's often called "The Poor Man's FEL." I don't think I can really justify the, what, $1500 or so a loader costs, and I really wanted a real front blade with hydraulic angling for snow and other things. Maybe someday I'll decide I need the loader, but for now I don't see any compelling reason to get one. I have one hill of good dirt that I want to move, and I think I can do that with a combination of the blade and dirt scoop. Once that's done, the jobs I foresee will be mostly of the mowing, garden (tilling, landrake, bottom plow) and snow pushing variety. No real digging needed, no logging, etc. The dirt scoop is only around $200, so how could I go wrong? Right now, it's loaded with sand bags, chains, etc., with a tarp strapped over it and a small shovel bungied to the top. Kind of an ideal back weight for snow pushing.. doesn't stick out very far, doesn't get in the way much, I can easily add more weight if I need it, and the weight is ideally positioned out behind the wheels. It's light enough to easily hook on and off, too. I think you'll like it if you get one! They have 24 and 30 inch models from King Kutter.. I got the 30. Sure looks rugged and well-built to me. Let us know if you get one, and how it works for you.
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #19  
Jyoutz; I live in the Northeast. But thanks for the consideration. I am looking at a 30" (>$200), or 36" ($300). I was told that shipping from west coast would be around $100 for shipping to the terminal in my area. So that increases my range. Yes it looks like the dirt scoop will definitelyt be inthe plans for this year along with the MMM.

Nuru
 
   / Factory wheel weights were too expensive! #20  
Bob, very similar to my situation, and the scoop is looking good for the immediate future. I am looking at the following scoops:

KingKutter 30" - $240 in Mass

Howes 30" at NorthernTool - <$200

China Depot - 36" - $329

Jim's Tractor - 36" - $299

I also have a blade (54" hydro plow). I got that instead of the loader as I figured it would be more pratical first than the loader for the winter.

Nuru
 

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