Farm Pro 2420 Engine Problems

[jb7983]

I have a 2420 with the TY290 engine. It has always started right up even in the cold. Recently it had a tank of fuel mixed 50/50 with diesel and kerosene thanks to a friend. It was run about 2 hours on this pulling a tiller.

A few days later I tried to start it and it wouldn't. I could only get it started by using a rag soaked with gas over the intake. Once warm it still takes a little while for it to start on it's own. Once started it would not idle as low as it used to without shutting off. It also takes a few moments for it to rev up when throttle is applied. It acts like it's running on 1 cylinder and when throttle is applied the other cylinder eventually kicks in.

I don't know a lot about diesel engines, but I know how to do a few tests. Both cylinders are getting fuel. With the engine idling if I loosen the injector line to the front cylinder nothing changes. If I loosen the injector line to the rear cylinder it starts to die off. I switched injectors and the problem remained with the front cylinder.

I did a compression test next through the glow plug holes. 300 psi on the front cylinder and 400 psi on the rear cylinder. I'm guessing the kerosene fried the rings, but I wanted to get some other opinions before I pull the head.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I always suspect the head gasket first.

 

[Bob Rooks]

You need a new smarter friend.
Check the oil in the fuel injection pump. If it smells like kerosene, change it.
The lubricity of kerosene is just about zero. The barrel and plungers in the fuel injection pump and the injectors depend on the lubricity of the sulfur in diesel fuel. The ULS diesel fuel is bad enough, so diluting it further is real bad news. I will speculate that, since you have worked it, the barrel and plungers are scored and sticking, and can't respond to the rack setting. IMHO, you should drain the fuel tank and fill up with LS off-road diesel fuel. A good sulfur additive would help too. I really hope this is not the case because replacement parts are not available for these fuel injection pump/governor assemblies. You have to purchase a new complete unit and have a qualified diesel mechanic install it. Having a 100 psig differential between cylinders is significant. Check the compression again, but this time put three good squirts of engine oil into the cylinders first. If it doesn't improve the reading, then check the valve lash.

Good luck.

 

[jb7983]

Thanks for the help bob. Not sure if the kerosene had anything to do with it, but when I pulled the injection pump the shaft of the pump was broken where the keyway is. I ordered a new pump, installed and timed it. Starts right up now and runs great. Thanks again

 

[Bob Rooks]

Yes, I think the kerosene had everything to do with it. Please re-read my previous post. For lack of lubrication, the barrel and plunger assemblies seized, not allowing the camshaft to turn, and consequently breaking the shaft.
Glad you got it up and running again.