farm pro 2524 rewiring project and brake issue

[farmerben8]

so I am finally getting around to installing the new wiring harness on this tractor which lost all electrical components from a fire years back. I have a newer style harness but older style gauges, alt regulator, etc.

My specific questions are how to wire the

alternator (it has a large terminal and one labeld F and one -), there are 4 wires that seem to go to it, a white-40 and black-9 a green-8 and a purple-4 not sure where the white green and purple attach...

voltage regulator (according to the numerous wiring diagrams I have it looks like there are at least 4 wires attaching to it but only 2 terminals an F and a +?, third may be a ground?), black 9 from alt (assume this is the ground), 40 white from alt, 8 green from alt, red 7 from fuse box, and 41 to warning lamp, which I will not be using... which terminals correspond with which wires?

and the tachmeter (it has a + and - terminal, as well as a K and S, Im assuming S is for sending unit, what is K?!?)

there are a lot of wires that I will not be using and wonder if this will effect the performance of the electrical system to work as it should? Since I have no indicator lights, I just heat shrink taped these terminals and zip tied them out of the way. However, some of these others like the horn seem to interact with other components

Also, my brake pedal seems to not be returning to its original position once depressed. I cant tell what is exactly restricting it but it sometimes stays down and I have to hook it with my toes and pull it back up!?! Coil springs around the pedal itself seem ok, but Im uncertain of what else could be at fault.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, once I get these wiring mysteries figured out it will be so nice to be able to start this thing by turning a key rather then using a screwdriver across starter terminals! :laughing::thumbsup:

 

[erj]

If you want to send me a Private Message with your Email address, I have 4 picture files of my Jinma 284 wiring that may help.

 

[farmerben8]

ok got the volt reg and alternator wiring figured out.

Cant understand why the gauges aren't labeled which post should be wired to the sender and which should be the power, both the oil pressure and engine temp are unlabeled. Maybe it doesnt matter? That would make it easier but im worried about frying the gauges if theyre not wired right

break pedal isnt returning to its original position still. might need to just grease the shaft the pedal rides on, but it seems to be getting stuck halfway back up then it wont return unless I pry it up with my toe. Could it be the springs wrapped around the shaft have lost their tension? see pic

A while back I ordered a brake pedal return spring, its a beefy little spring I just cant tell where it should be attached! see other pic

any help would be greatly appreciated. Im getting there, slowly...

 

[Bob Rooks]

Not familiar at all with your tractor, but those are two completely different types of springs. The one in your hand is a linear retraction spring and would fit to the brake pedal arm in the returned position. The other is a radial retraction spring which could be left in situ.

 

[timinsanborn]

the spring in your hand is for the pedal return, it attaches to the pedal arm under the tractor.

 

[farmerben8]

Ok great, i thought i looked under there but might have missed something. Thanks so much!!!

 

[farmerben8]

Yep, ive searched and searched and there is nowhere to put this spring. No tab attached to pedal or linkage anywhere i can see that would allow the spring to be utilized. Im completely stumped!

 

[Bob Rooks]

I think you really need to soak that shaft with penetrating oil so that radial spring can do it's job. Whoever sent you that linear spring sent you the wrong one.

 

[farmerben8]

yeah I tried hitting it with the grease gun, but not sure how deep its getting. What can you suggest for getting penetrating oil to, well, penetrate the length of the shaft?

Ive got a pile of wrong parts for this thing, its been a frustrating process. Wrong hood (had to tweak the frame set up to make it work), wrong wiring harness (tons of extra stuff for later model instrument cluster and all the wires are the wrong length, and have the wrong terminals...), wrong tach sender (too small of a thread size), wrong brake return spring... Im sure the guys at Affordable Tractor Sales are good people, but I got a lot of wrong parts years ago and its taken me this long to get around to trying to use them... oh well.

This restoration is a nightmare, and all this to turn around and sell it because I'm moving.

Im almost there with the wiring, and if I could get the brake pedal to return, it would make selling this thing so much easier.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Bob Rooks]

This is the best penetrant that I know of. My bulldozer has a brake cross shaft like yours and it keeps it free. I give it a few shots when it begins to stiffen up.
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