Farmall M Won't Start!!

LBA1999 · Feb 13, 2012

First, to start off, I'm new on here but have looked through this site for awhile and I am amazed at how many answers I can find. Anyway, I have a fully restored Farmall M that was completed about five years ago. In 2008 I think we took it to a local fair and it was on display for a week. During this time, someone pulled out the switch and drained the battery. Since then we have been plauged with electrical problems. We are on our third or fourth brand new battery, have replaced the on/off switch as well as the switch for the foot pedal to hit the starter. The starter was also rebuilt about two weeks ago. It just won't start. I will get about 2-3 cranks on a fully charged battery. The timeline was as follows: I got the starter back about two weeks ago and the guy said it had a bad contact and was fixed. (I had already replaced both switches and the battery is two years old.) I installed it, charged the battery, and got absolutely nothing at all, not even a noise like it was turning over. I sent the starter back, thinking it was not fixed. Just got it back thursday and the guy had it apart twice and said it was perfect. I went out and bought a brand new battery on Saturday. I installed it, and got the same 2-3 cranks. Then i discovered the battery did not come charged as most car batteries do (This tractor is still all original 6 volt positive ground starting system) so I charged the battery on my commercial automatic charger ( has a 6 volt setting and automatically shuts off when battery is full) and got about 10-15 cranks but didn't start. Then I realized it needed water so I filled it with distilled water ( now Sunday night) and i put the charger on it. I came home today, charger says full, and I got about 2-3 cranks. Sorry to ramble I have just put my heart and soul and a lot of money into this tractor and it is very frustrating for it not to run. Before you ask no it is not something else this tractor runs flawlessly when pull started. Motor has been rebuilt, new clutch, all seals, everything on tractor disassembled and redone. I have now re-replaced every component of the starting system except the cables. Please Help me!

murphy1244 · Feb 13, 2012

You charged the battery then tried to start then added water??? I think your new battery has shorted plates now.

flusher · Feb 14, 2012

I'd get another 6V battery and try to turn over the engine just to eliminate the battery as the problem (possibly a weak cell that looks OK on the charger but then fails when you try to crank a load).

DJ54 · Feb 14, 2012

Battery drain is more then likely from the voltage regulator sticking, and letting it draw the battery down. It's hard to find good ones that last over a year. I've bought top of the line from NAPA, and their cheapies, both last about the same. A few years back, I found some inline diodes, that I bought to use on mine. Got one on my other Super C, and so far, it has worked. They were from the UK, and were like $5.00 ea., and shipping amazingly enough, was only like $5.00, plus change.

The best one I have (knock on wood) is the one on my other Farmall Super C. Been on there snce about '77, and it came from what I refer to as, the "Real Tractor Supply Co." Back when 90% of their stock was tractor parts.

As for the only turning 2-3 cranks.. Just taking a shot here, but guessing they used automotive cables for battery cables. If that is correct, have a new set of cables custom made from 2/0 battery cable. Most of the large tractor dealers can do this. Our local NAPA can make them too. You'll be amazed at the difference, and could very well be the reason for smoking your starter switches, and starter.

A good set of these cables may run you $50-$75, but it may also clear up a lot of the other issues.

Over the years, I've heard a lot of guys state IH's had a lazy starter... Most is due to, too light of battery cables.

Soundguy · Feb 14, 2012

if the battery dies while connected.. I'd second the thought on a stuck cutout relay in the voltage regulator.

as to not starting but 2-3 cranks?

have you replaced the battery hot cable and ground strap and cleaned under them and the terminals?

6v system also need thick 1/0 cables.. not wimpy 4ga cables.

if this is batt3ry ignition.. and it probably is.. have you checked points and coil? leaving the key on till the bat was dead liekly damaged one or both.

soundguy

LBA1999 · Feb 19, 2012

I'll have to see about the battery. I have a load tester so if it tests bad I'll get a replacement. It is a Napa Commercial battery so it's a good battery. I checked the points and there was light corrosion so I cleaned them but is wasn't enough to prevent starting IMO. I don't know about the cables. It sounds like this is the most logical next step then. The ground cable is only hooked up when I am trying to start the tractor and then it is immediately unhooked, so I don't think the battery is draining. I forget to mention the lights work so I know I am getting voltage. I have also jumped the hot on the battery right to the starter with jumper cables and the result is the same 2-3 cranks. I will also check the coil. Thanks for all the responses!

Egon · Feb 19, 2012

Is it a two or four pole starter. Them two poles are a definite pain.:thumbsup:

Harry in Ky · Feb 19, 2012

If you have a good voltmeter it's not hard to test your cables, which may well be the problem, since you've covered the battery and starter more than once. Might work better with another pair of hands. Measure the battery voltage at the battery posts themselves first, not on the cable ends. Have someone hit the starter, and see how much voltage drop occurs while attempting to crank. Move one voltmeter lead at a time, starting with the negative in this case. move it to the stud on the starter or wherever the cable goes and try to crank again. The voltage should be nearly the same if the cable is good. Try the same thing with the positive cable and a good ground. If you have a bad connection in a cable the voltage will drop to near zero under load once the bad connection is between the battery post and the meter probe

Tomdysz · Mar 23, 2012

I bought a Kubota L2850, it came with a battery charger. The owner said he had not run it in a while, I was the first to look at it after he posted it on Craigslist. The battery was 8 years old, so I replaced it. It still had the same issue, it would not restart, even after running a while. I troubleshot the electrical wiring, starter connections, voltage regulator and alternator. There was a short in the rear lights, so I disconnected the rear light harness. Still same issue. Charge battery or jump, start tractor, run, stop, and it would not restart. It clicked, but would not turn over. I then tried to tap the starter with a hammer while holding the starter switch closed, thinking maybe the solenoid was sticking. Still nothing. There was some debris around the starter, so I started pulling it away. Suddenly I felt the fusible link was extremely warm, almost hot. So I wiggled it around in it's connector. I turned on the starter switch, and it started! I purchased a new fusible link, and the tractor has started since. Although I am not sure if your tractor has one, and the situation may be different; I wanted to post this as it may help another tractor owner.

gengine · Mar 23, 2012

My dad and grandad are currently restoring an M. They are painting the sheet metal right now, but they had a hard time starting it, and it sounds very similar. The battery cables had cheap clamps. The type that have two bolts that clamp the cable, and a third that clamps the post. There was enough corrosion where the cable was clamped, not enough amps were flowing through.