Farmall model H hydraulic problems

[J_J]

Using a 2 stage log splitter hyd pump for tractor hyd is not a good idea. It only pumps 13 GPM's at 650 psi. and 3 GPM's at 2500 psi. Those figures are with the tractor rpm at 3600.

 

[J_J]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9SV-3-Y&catname=

Would this be the right valve for my needs? What options would I have to select in the 3 sections on the drop down menu? I will be running the hoist, break out for bucket roll and 3PH on the main valve.

Power beyond, float, and for rear remote, maybe detent.

 

[300UGUY]

Farmerford I gave a quick glance through the books he gave me but didn't see the rated HP. I can remember as a kid seeing several farmers around still using them to pull the grain wagons. Only saw a couple tipped over and they were usually doing something they knew better then as in mowing a steep bank.

Very informative on the information you have shared with me. I am looking forward to this adventure of getting this old gal into what will work better for me. I will ask a guy at work that grew up around them what the HP rate was. It will be Monday before I get a chance to do anything as I am working 12 hour shifts and even though too late I like my beauty rest.

I don't believe my valve is PB equiped so at the very least I am thinking a new valve is in order. I can take a picture of what is plumbed and make a diagram of how it is plumbed in so maybe someone can make heads from tails of what has been done.

By the book the belly pump can make 800 PSI at high idle and has a oil reserve capacity of 8 Gal. Doubt I will be using that feature.


Farmall H Power:
Drawbar (claimed): 17-19 hp [12.7 kW]

Belt (claimed): 21-24 hp [15.7 kW]

Drawbar (tested): 24.17 hp [18.0 kW]

Belt (tested): 26.20 hp [19.5 kW]



Drifter52

Those hp numbers were from the 40's or early 50's. Most of thses tractors have been rebuilt at least once, and the rebuild kits generally gave you some more hp. I rebuilt my H, including the head, and I am getting around 35hp. Guys pulling these old girls regularly run them up a lot higher.

 

[Drifter52]

Far as I know she hasn't been rebuilt or used that much. More weathered from sitting ut then anything. Found an old PTO pump today. Wierd looking deal is all encased in about a 2 gallon canister that serves as the resevor. Took it apart to clean it up and turned by hand it pumps. Drives with a chain and appears to be a 1 to 1 ratio on the sprocket. Valve is built into th pump body with one mean return spring. Anyone had any dealings with them? Didn't see a brand name or label on it anywhere. Something was painted on the back end but is all weathered into oblivion.

Drifter52

 

[IceStationZebra]

If you aren't going to use the FEL I would run a pto pump. No belts to worry about, and if you want a different tractor no big deal.

Post of pick of your PTO pump. When I worked for CaseIH the big PTO pumps used on big corn planters were bolted rigid to the tractor with a custom bracket. To allow for some flex in the pump drive, there was an adapter that slid over the PTO shaft and attached to the pump with a double chain wrapped tight around both sprockets. Maybe this is what you have?
Heavy Duty Chain Coupling

ISZ

 

[Drifter52]

I measured the canister that contains the pump. Diameter is 9 in and is 10 in long. I figure it to be in and around 2 1/2 gallon but the pump inside will take up some of that. The drive was a single chain with a sprocket on the PTO and one on the pump from what I can see. And the pump mounted to the draw bar.

The lever is one stiff begger and spring return to center. Threads on top Ithink are 3/4 NPT but have been buggered up and a plug doesn.t want to start. The ring is aluminum. When I took it apart they had used silicone to try to seal it up and a lot was inside and some was stuck to the screen of th intake to the pump. The remains of a paper type gasket was in the recess of the ring as well with the silicone. The end had been mashed in some which I pounded out with a big hammer and a 2X2 block to somewhat where it should of been. 2 baffles were also inside which one was broke loose. One of the bolts had been over tightened and caved in part of the canister as well. I am thinking an Oring might be a better way to seal this and might have been what was used originally.

Drifter52