Farmall Super A Throttle Problems

[SuperA]

Hello Guys, I have a strange problem going on with my Framall Super A. I just got her going again, having sat for nearly 3 years and I replaced the Carb with a Rebuilt Zenith carb. Problem is I have No Control of the Throttle at all... When engine is OFF, all the linkage works as it should, with engine running the throttle linkage handle just moves the Governor NOT the Throttle ???? I'm Puzzled, Any help would sure be appreciated Here's a close up look at it... Thanks for the Help

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[DJ54]

Sounds like the thrust bearing (#25 in the exploded view) has disintegrated. Normally when that happens, it will maybe go to 1/3 throttle, and that's about it. Here the link to the Case/IH online parts store, that shows the exploded view of your governor. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts

 

[Ed of all trades]

I don't know what part but I agree with DJ57 the problem is in the governor not the carb. Ed

 

[SuperA]

Thank You Very Much Guys. I Hesitate to take the Governor apart, having never done it before. The Manual isn't really of much help. There are no videos on line about working on these particular Governors, so I'm going in there Blind Sided. Oh well, won't be the first time...

 

[DJ54]

You'll need to remove the hood, grille, and fan shroud to make it a lot easier. Then unhook the throttle linkage, and clevis on the left side. Remove 4 bolts holding the Gov. assy. cover on, and bump it loose. That gasket is pretty thick, and 99% of the time, there is no damage to it. Clean it, apply some sealer, and you're good to go. I prefer Permatex brush on sealer, but to each his own.

Everything pretty well stays in place, and is not going to jump out on you, unless something is broken internally, and laying in there anyway. Thrust washer may separate a bit, as it is a 3 piece bearing, and if the cage that holds the bearings is bad, the tiny ball bearings, if they are still there, may drop out. It'd be an idea to cup your hand under it, if you remove it, just in case.

Thinking only 3 possible things wrong. Thrust bearing bad, Gov. spring (#5 in the exploded view) is broken, or the weights are stuck. Normally, if the spring is broken, they have been known to go to wide open, and beyond... But since the Gov. rock shaft arm is moving, I'd guess it's still in one piece. And a rare possibility the fly weights are stuck, but not likely.

When one of mine will only open up to just above a good idle, the first place I look is that thrust bearing.

If by chance it is the thrust bearing, it'd be a good idea to change the oil, because the bearings end up in the oil pan. If the mesh screen is good in the oil pickup, they will not pass through there. But, there's always that what if, if you've never had the pan off, and checked the sump.

 

[SuperA]

Thanks DJ, You Answered the one question that Noone else answered... I have to take off the Grill & Radiator Shroud to get the Govenor out. Now I Understand That part anyway... Does Removing the Gov. interfere at all with the Mag?
Here is another Close up Vid I just posted, hopefully it will help with the diagnoisis.
Thanks again so much for your advice., DanO'

 

[DJ54]

Actually, all you're taking off is the front cover of the Governor, and it's internals, rockshaft, thrust fork, etc., not the complete Gov. unit. The pinion gear with the fly weights, that drives the Mag., stays in the housing, behind that front cover. And the two things I'm thinking may be your problem are very easy to get to, once that cover is removed.

The spring will be in the cover you remove, and the thrust bearing will be on the shaft, that is part of the drive pinion. Now that I've seen how easy that rockshaft moves back forward, I'm leaning towards that spring being broken. The way it somewhat jumped when going back forward leads me to believe it's dropped down between the housing, and thrust fork, and when pushed forward more, it binds a bit, then jumps back out of the way.

The exploded view is a little intimidating, but it is much simpler than it appears. I think you'll gain some confidence, once you remove the cover, and see just how simple of a mechanism it is.

Take the hood off first, as the grill is what holds the front of it up. Other wise, it will drop down on the valve cover, and be just more in your way.

Checked Messicks site for parts prices, to save you some sticker shock. The spring isn't too bad at $10.21. But that bearing is a bit pricey at $41.66. Prices are good at all Case/IH dealers. Glad I got an extra one about 10 years ago, and have it in the parts drawer. Thinking it was $8 +change back then. And springs were like $1.75. Got 2-3 of them, in the drawer too. Looks like it was a good investment.

 

[SuperA]

Thanks so much for the detailed info DJ. I will definitely be tackling this job asap. Will keep you posted.
I Greatly appreciate all your time and expert advice. DanO'

 

[SuperA]

Here is the latest Update on the Governor Inspection / Repair Job
Appreciate your Input and Advice DanO'

 

[DJ54]

If I remember right, seems the cage that holds the ball bearings for the thrust washer, had a double stamped face. Could be wrong, it's been almost 40 years ago since I replaced the one on the BN, that had a metal cage. That one only has it on the one side. Shouldn't make that much difference, unless it the other half got caught up in one of the fly weights, or the rockshaft mechanism, not allowing it to activate.

And seems like the last new bearing I got had a plastic/nylon cage, not metal.

I'd take a real close look inside the Gov., around the fly weights, for pieces of the other half of that cage. You can oil things up before putting it back together. If I remember right, there is an oil port in the bore the Gov. mechanism rides in to lube the front part. Oil then returns to the pan past the Gov. drive gear, down past the cam gear.