Ballast FEL and ballast?

[Zoomie]

Do those of y'all who use a FEL on a small tractor, like the BX series (which I am strongly considering), find a need for rear ballast hanging on the 3PH?

I see in JD's literature with the 4x10s that they sell, and recommend (chicken and the egg?), a "ballast box" for use with their front end loader.

Wouldn't the hydraulic relief valve prevent you from picking up a load that is "too heavy" for the tractor to handle without tipping forward?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jim_Becker]

For moving lightweight materials like fresh mulch, no extra weight in the back is necessary. But for lifting soil, rock, snow, etc, weight in the rear is absolutely necessary. I have a 200 lb weight I made for the 3pt for "general use" and use my backhoe when I need the absolute most weight in the back to either balance the FEL or provide tons of traction. This year I plowed snow with the BH on the machine and it was like night and day from last year with just the 3pt weight!

You can lift your tractor with the FEL...the pump will not care nor will it keep the rear of the tractor on the ground with something heavy in the front. But a word of caution--even with a lot of weight in the back, heavy loads should be kept as close to the ground as possible to avoid tipping problems. Mere inches can make a difference.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

And ALWAYS wear your seat belt when moving anything in the FEL. Dont ask how I know that.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[r0GuE]

Yep! You have got to have some ballast when doing serious loader work. It ill lift a lot of work and make the tractor unstable. I've had a mishap where I was descending a slight grade and the rear wheels unweighted just enough that I couldn't stop. I ran in to my mailbox (thank God not into a person). It is VERY flaky without ballsast. You will notice it on flat ground and it becomes dangerous very quickly as ANY sort of a grade is introduced. I recommend a good heavy rear blade (like a woods RB60).

 

[snurb]

I have a BX1500 with a FEL. For ballast, my dealer loaded my rear tires with liquid. This adds about 100 lbs per tire for a total of 200 lbs. I am happy with this setup. I have moved several yards of fill and topsoil. With the large foot print of the BX rear tires, the additional weight does not cause the rear tires to rut on soft ground. Remember to keep the loaded bucket as low as possible at all times. These tractors are top heavy with a loaded bucket. Always wear a seatbelt when using the loader.

 

[sandyc]

Welcome to tbn

I have a 2200 with a LA 211 FEL and use both loaded tires and a weight box. Even with all that, I have lifted the rear when trying to pull a stump or something equally as heavy.

For snow removal, the weighted tires really help with traction!

 

[surfran]

Rear ballast is a must but it can be many things. Some build there own and some use rear implements and some purchase the ballast boxes the mfg's sell. Each to their own, but bottom line you need it to be safe.

I was moving a 6' high Rhododendron last weekend with my BX1800 and while trying to lift it out of the ground (and dig out root ball with shovel at the same time) I lifted the rear end off the ground with my 220lb self on the seat and 300lbs in my ballast box. Ended up adding another few hundred pounds ballast to lift it and move it with the FEL

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> Wouldn't the hydraulic relief valve prevent you from picking up a load that is "too heavy" for the tractor to handle without tipping forward? </font>

My rear tires are loaded and I usually have either my backhoe or box blade on the back when doing loader work.

Last summer I did not have an implement on the back, but wanted to get six 16' 6x6s out of the back of my van. I thought the loaded tires would be enough. They almost were.

I have attached a photo of my rear wheel about 8" off the ground. Note how low the bucket is. The loader lifted the weight without problem. And the load was centered so there was no side pull that might be caused by an unbalanced load sticking out on one side.

This situation was totally controlled, because as soon as the end of the 6x6 touched the ground, movement stopped. I could raise of lower the rear wheel by moving the bucket up and down. If the load had been entirely in the bucket, and did not extend outwards quite a bit, this would have be a pucker factor situation! The reason being that I did not have enough ballast on the back or counter the weight the loader could lift without problem. So here is the proof that you need ballast when using the loader within it lift capability. And loaded tires may not be enough ballast. They are not enough for my tractor.

edit: I forgot to mention that most of the time the rear wheels were on the ground and the load could be moved. All it took though was a slight change in the angle of the driveway surface to make the tractor start to tip...

 

[Henro]

This shot was a couple days ago.

Ballast is the more normal 60" box blade with four 12" concrete blocks on top...

 

[Zoomie]

Thanks again.

I plan to add a tiller to my tractor, so I guess it may see alot of "hang time" as ballast.