FEL Lines Fluid Bleed

Hickory Creek · Feb 14, 2014

I know Wa11banger posted on here about how to change out all the fluids, but I can not find it. I got the 404 running and will finish that post later. Had to replace all the plumbing under house after 3 solid days of freezing and then 13* with a wind chill of 6 the last night finishing off all the pvc that was insulated.

Anyway, boss lady was bent as **** about catching up on chores now that she had a FEL. Worked for about 2 hrs, then went charging across field with bucket low and went into a hole and rammed the bucket back into cylinders blowing the hydraulic lines on the left side as sitting on tractor. Hood was off engine and fluid soaked her and tractor. No I did not laugh, I was mad.

My question: Removed the two lines today and got new ones made. Can I just connect them to picture #3 and connect the line at top of cylinder, picture #2 and work joy stick and let fluid bleed out line that connects to end of cylinder, where polished shaft comes out before attaching that line, picture#1 or what should I do. We are suppose to get up into the 60's tomorrow and Sun., and I know she will be ready to give it her all. I need to know how to bleed this thing. I think clicking on pictures will blow them up.

Also, what type of oil do I add to the fluid reservoir? There is still some in it as we got the tractor in before it all pumped out. You will see from the picture 1, that the bucket is turned straight down with the polished piston extended.

Thanks

Hickory Creek · Feb 15, 2014

No coffee yet, so I think I did not hit the right button first time. Found an excellent site for my problem. It explains all about the different valves, hydraulic fluids, etc. I think I may have a bigger problem than just busted lines. Anyway, good reading material with links to further advanced reading. HYDRALICS FOR BEGINNERS. Hydraulics 101 for Beginners | Tractor Supply Co.

Hickory Creek · Feb 15, 2014

OK, do I need ISO 46 or ISO 68 for the FEL pump? Everything I read says refer to owners manual which I do not have and should have. As far as bleeding air out of system, I have yet to come across a site that tells how to do that on the 404, again everything is general and says REFER TO OWNERS MANUAL. Also for all of you out there, I was going to use Teflon tape on the fittings as that is what it looked like was on them at the central make up point picture 3. I have read not to use teflon tape, but instead they make a special Teflon liquid tape specific for hydraulic lines to prevent any pieces of tape from getting into system.

greg_g · Feb 15, 2014

As long as the fill vent is not blocked, the system is self-bleeding. Just hook up the new lines, and top up your sump with ISO32. If you use the tractor in the winter, you'll find ISO46/64 will make you warm up the tractor longer (to thin the fluid). Either pipe thread compound or liquid Teflon is the way to go. Avoid tape. Probably a good opportunity to flush the hydraulic system while you're at it.

Does your "bigger problem" involve bent cylinder rams and/or leaking ram wipers?

//greg//

Hickory Creek · Feb 15, 2014

Thanks, Greg. I am having the fear you mentioned, as in researching I read about "bigger problems."
Did not get to it today as planned. Will install, top off, and see what happens. I had called Affordable about filter and will get one when I order air filter and pan gasket, bottom end of engine. Thanks again, Live in the warm South, so may go with 46, unless you think 32 will hold up to high 90's ambient temp.

greg_g · Feb 16, 2014

If the tractor sits idle during the Mississippi winters, 46 will be fine. Or if you don't mind sitting there for a few extra minutes, cold AW46 will soon warm up to where the hydraulics eventually operate normal speed. Faster than AW64 for example. When you think viscosity - think flow rate when cold. AW32 has a viscosity equivalency to 10W engine oil. AW46 and AW64 are on the low and high ends of a 20W equivalency. If/when you select AW100, you're moving into 30W territory.

//greg//

Rich Waugh · Feb 16, 2014

I live in the moderate tropics (65F to 95F) and find that AW32 is just right. The AW46 is a bit slow on those 65° mornings until it warms up, and I have had no problems with the AW32 being too thin at 95°F.

J_J · Feb 16, 2014

When you bleed the cyl, cycle the cyl about 10 times holding the lever for about 3 sec at each end of the stroke.

greg_g · Feb 17, 2014

J_J said:
When you bleed the cyl, cycle the cyl about 10 times holding the lever for about 3 sec at each end of the stroke.

Not necessary on this self-bleeding system. Single sump tractors maybe, but not on this dual sump machine. It's a simple matter of raising/lowering/curling as required, with the engine at about 1/2 throttle. The affected cylinder(s) will jump/shudder as fluid pushes air bubbles through the cylinder and back toward the (clean) vent. When the erratic motion/jumping stops, the air is bled. In my Chinese tractor experience, this procedure takes only ~10 seconds to vent.

//greg//