FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer

   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer
  • Thread Starter
#41  
JWR,

I was told by 2 people (one being the hydraulics guy at the parts store) not to put orifice restrictions on the hoses. Apparently the flow must be free flowing from the cylinder or the differential pressures in the cylinder will cause premature seal failure. They used to sell those restrictors but had too many cylinders returned due to seal failure. The flow control valves I tried were free flowing on one direction but restrictive in the other. I might try the 3.5 gpm valves. The ones I tried were 15gpm.

If I go the spring steel route I will use my forge to anneal the steel, then after working the blades into the configuration I want I will reharden then temper. I would likely use my milling machine to form the sharp edges. That way I can take the same amount of steel off each edge. Should produce a balanced blade that way.

LouNY,

Agreed. I prefer the Diverter valve. I installed one on my old tractor and really like the way it worked. If I knew what I know now about the 3rd function I would have gone with that on this tractor. I took the diverter off the old tractor when I traded it in and could install it on this tractor if I ever get to a point where I can't stand the 3rd function.

Xfaxman,

Those are exactly what I need and thanks for that. I will check with the local skid steer implement guy (that's actually is name :) to see if he has them and check on pricing. My guess is they will be expensive. Seems that everything for a SS is more expensive.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer #42  
JWR,

I was told by 2 people (one being the hydraulics guy at the parts store) not to put orifice restrictions on the hoses. Apparently the flow must be free flowing from the cylinder or the differential pressures in the cylinder will cause premature seal failure. They used to sell those restrictors but had too many cylinders returned due to seal failure. The flow control valves I tried were free flowing on one direction but restrictive in the other. I might try the 3.5 gpm valves. The ones I tried were 15gpm.

If I go the spring steel route I will use my forge to anneal the steel, then after working the blades into the configuration I want I will reharden then temper. I would likely use my milling machine to form the sharp edges. That way I can take the same amount of steel off each edge. Should produce a balanced blade that way.

LouNY,

Agreed. I prefer the Diverter valve. I installed one on my old tractor and really like the way it worked. If I knew what I know now about the 3rd function I would have gone with that on this tractor. I took the diverter off the old tractor when I traded it in and could install it on this tractor if I ever get to a point where I can't stand the 3rd function.

Xfaxman,

Those are exactly what I need and thanks for that. I will check with the local skid steer implement guy (that's actually is name :) to see if he has them and check on pricing. My guess is they will be expensive. Seems that everything for a SS is more expensive.
I would just say what brushhog they are for. Dont throw out what you are doing or that they are for a converted hydraulic brushhog. May keep things cheaper. Then tell him after he pays if you choose to
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer
  • Thread Starter
#43  
I checked his website and a couple of SS implement manufacturer sites and don't see anything smaller than a 60" mower, so I'm thinking the blades would be too long.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer #44  
3) The upturned blades are OK but tend to throw things up. I have decided I will make my own flat blades from spring steel, if I can't find a reasonably priced set elsewhere..

Is spring steel too brittle for a mower blade? Concern being you want a blade to bend, not shatter, when it hits a rock, piece of steel or whatever might be under what you are mowing.
 
Last edited:
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Is spring steel too brittle for a mower blade? Concern being you want a blade to bend, not shatter, when it hits a rock, piece of steel or whatever might be under what you are mowing.

Very good question and I'm not sure. My thinking is that if it is annealed, rehardened and then tempered, it would be fine but I could be wrong. I'll have to do some more reading to see what I can find out about this.

I called the local SS implement dealer and his blades are all 5" wide. Nothing that is 3" wide and his blades are too long.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer #46  
Check TSC for blades. They carry a variety of sizes. BTW, I noticed most are 5160 spring steel.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Check TSC for blades. They carry a variety of sizes. BTW, I noticed most are 5160 spring steel.

I checked but didn't see anything with 2 cutting edges but it was nice to see they are made of 5160 spring steel.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer #48  
I know this thread is almost a year old, but how has your creation been working for you Hilbilly? I recently scored an Erskine PTO hydraulic unit, 20gpm at 3000 psi. I致e been looking to come up with a solution very similar to yours. 3 to 4K is more than I want to spend on a lane shark or a trailblazer.
I recently came across a company called Hardee, that seems to make highly regarded, fairly simplistic equipment. Miti Mike | hardeebyevhmfg
Brush Tiger | hardeebyevhmfg
I知 trying to get a price on the rotary head and the hydraulic angling setup. It looks like it could be a fairly simple fab job for me, if the head can handle the flow I have. My plan is to use the ability to extend and angle like the Miti Mike, but mounted on the loader with a QA plate like the brush tiger. I could extend and angle from my seat.
Any idea you know how much your rotary cutter weighs? My other idea is to find a 4 hydraulic flail, and try to replicate your setup. They are pretty heavy though, but not as long as a rotary.
 
   / FEL Mounted Brush Mower / Trimmer
  • Thread Starter
#49  
It's been working great, but I'm still wanting a slower tilt movement. I ordered some parts to slow the tilt but I think the parts dealer forgot about me. I'll call again.

The weight of the 48" mower I have is listed at 400 lbs, including the driveshaft, front and rear shields and the solid wheel. I have removed all of the accessories and cut off the mounting plates. I also removed some of the deck material. So my setup should weigh considerably less than 400#.

Good luck with the build and post pics when you get it done.
 

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