FEL rebuild

[woolyAcres]

I'd like to rebuild the FEL on my older Yanmar (24HP) tractor. The frame portion of the loader is pretty decent. There's one weld I've found that needs attention but otherwise things look okay. I know very little about hydraulics, except how to push-pull on the lever when everything is working. Are there places I can buy "a loader rebuild kit" that would include cylinders, hoses, joystick control, etc? Or is this something that needs to be assembled part by part?

The bucket on my machine is far too large for the loader, the bucket 'drops' when left in any position above the ground, and at least one cylinder is 'streaming fluid' so there are significant repairs to do. Did I mention I don't I don't care for the 2-lever control? The loader also isn't removable from the machine because there are no couplers. I don't know much about spooling, float, etc (at least not yet). Is this a diy project for someone with tools and time but limited knowledge?

I'd really like to setup my FEL with a SSQA so I can share loader attachments (bale spear (for 4x4 dry bales) and pallet forks) with my father's larger tractor (NH TC45 with LA16 loader).

For reference Koyker would spec the 120 for my machine . Here's a picture of my machine so you can see what I'm dealing with.

Thanks in advance.

 

[oldnslo]

I don't know of any "rebuild kit" for loaders. Usually you have to buy seal kits for the cylinders since the cylinders vary in size from loader to loader. Depending on how bad of shape the cylinder rods are in you may find it less expensive to replace the cylinders Vs rebuilding them again depending on size.

You can purchase replacement joystick type loader valves. Just need to try and match the size (flow rate) with your tractor.

 

[Fawken]

I'd stay with that frame vs a Koyker. Pretty easy to build a QA setup with pins. Obviously, a good stick welder is a must. Size your current cylinders and look at SurplusCenter.com for replacements and a Prince joystick valve. Discount Hydraulic Hose for new hoses. Convert JIC to SAE fittings where possible while you're at it. It is a winter project because you won't be doing it in one weekend for sure! Good luck

 

[Leejohn]

What is the size of the hoses on your loader? That rear pump might be feeding the loader. Where does all the hoses go to?

 

[woolyAcres]

What is the size of the hoses on your loader? That rear pump might be feeding the loader. Where does all the hoses go to?

My FEL is currently plumbed into the tractor's normal hydro pump. The same one used for the 3PT hitch. I've actually removed that rear pump (and started a thread about it here).

Some folks far more knowledgeable about this tractor suggest the internal pump (which runs the loader and 3PT) is good for about 4-5 gal at 2200psi. I believe the hoses for the FEL are 3/8", but I'd have to check carefully.

Interestingly, in addition the the rear mounted PTO pump, this machine came with a pump hidden on the front (below the battery) which could, or was, connected directly to a shaft sticking forward from the engine. This pump isn't currently turning. The shaft is not longer connected to the pump, but the pump is there as are the hoses. In fact that reservoir you see on the near (right) side of the tractor is for that front pump. I'd love to reconnect this pump and use that for the loader. The hoses running to and from that reservoir are much larger than the ones running to the FEL so it's possible that pump is more powerful.

 

[J_J]

The rear hyd pump was sized for the PTO HP. It probably puts out more than the tractor pump.

There should be a model number on the pump to look up the GPM and pressure rating.

So, are you saying you have or had three pumps on your tractor.

 

[woolyAcres]

I'd stay with that frame vs a Koyker. Pretty easy to build a QA setup with pins. Obviously, a good stick welder is a must. Size your current cylinders and look at SurplusCenter.com for replacements and a Prince joystick valve. Discount Hydraulic Hose for new hoses. Convert JIC to SAE fittings where possible while you're at it. It is a winter project because you won't be doing it in one weekend for sure! Good luck

Thanks for the suggestions. However, if this is going to involve a stick welder, there's more to learn than I first thought.

 

[woolyAcres]

What is the size of the hoses on your loader? That rear pump might be feeding the loader. Where does all the hoses go to?

That rear PTO has already been removed. It was used to power 3 quick connect remote fittings just taped to the loader arms. The lines leading into the loader control valve are 3/8".

 

[woolyAcres]

The rear hyd pump was sized for the PTO HP. It probably puts out more than the tractor pump.

There should be a model number on the pump to look up the GPM and pressure rating.

So, are you saying you have or had three pumps on your tractor.

It looks like my two recent posts in this forum are confusing things. I believe it DID have 3 pumps at one time and I'm trying to figure out the volume of this rear pump but that's for the other thread... This PTO pump has been removed. I have no interest in keeping it on this tractor. It ties up the rear-end, so isn't very useful to me.

 

[Fawken]

Thanks for the suggestions. However, if this is going to involve a stick welder, there's more to learn than I first thought.

I guess you could use a Mig. I was talking about for the frame repair and building a frame for a QA. I take it for granted that everyone on this forum can stick weld. Heck without my welder I doubt I'd be able to live out here. Something always needs mending. Tonight I welded two beer cans together with the TIG. How's that for useful?:laughing: