Ferguson 20 3-point linkage

[Rgillard]

I have recently done up a ferguson te20.she looks well. took her out ploughing but every time i lower the plough it lifts back up before it gets too deep into the ground.

The hydraulic lift is working perfect.
Will stay up when supposed to and down when supposed to. The problem lies when an attempt is made to go ploughing. Has anyone any ideas

 

[Atch4115]

Someone else might know more about this than I do but I think your problem is in your draft control. The draft control lifts the plow when it feels to much pressure.I can't tell you how to fix it but I think there should be a coil spring directly under your seat which controls it.If I'm not right about this I'm sure someone will correct me.

 

[beenthere]

As pointed out, you need to adjust the draft control. Either describe the top link connection at the tractor end (under the seat) or find a manual that will help you with it.

The draft control will lift the plow when there is 'too much' compression (push) on the top link. Now I will admit to not knowing enough about the specific TO20 (I used to have a TO30 but don't remember enough about the draft control) but also think you are getting the results of a draft control that is too sensitive, and it needs to be tightened up (maybe screw the rear top link spring tighter).

 

[Rgillard]

The coil spring on the draft control is loose. can the spring be replaced?has anyone done this before that could give me any advise?

 

[beenthere]

There lies your problem. Get the spring tight and you will get control of your depth problem, I am sure.

Nothing obvious about how to snug the spring up?

How about a picture?

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. liek the others said.. draft control is not adjusted, and that free play is activating the valving to lift the plow. That spring rides on a yoke and pin. The fergy I&T manual at TSC will show how to adjust it..( this pump and hyd system is identical to the ford 1939-1947 9n/2n setup.. nd a tad different than the 1948 8n setup.. ) but it mainly consists of screwing the youk ( that connects to the toplink rocker) into the rod.. however.. 50 years of rust usually makes this more or less a 'unit' instead of individual parts, and you are likely to break it putting enough force on it to get it to screw in. some have reported luck by getting it red hot with a torch.. and allowing to cool, and then hitting with penetrating oil.. then continuing.. all the while tapping with a tack hammer.

That said, you can also shim it tight with a few large honkin flat washers with a notch cut out of them so they can straddle the rod.. just find one big enought to drive into the gap under a tad bit of tension, and you will eliminate the free play, and then once again let that big spring handle compression and allow the rod to actuate the valving on the underside of the hyd topcover more correctly.

Soundguy